Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd.
11.2 – Hot End Prep
Now it's time to prepare the hot end for wiring. By this time, the RTV in your hot end should
be fully cured (make sure you've let it cure for at least 24 hours) and it should look like the example in
Fig. 11.2-1.:
Before we start the wiring process, I want you to
wrap the heater block of the hot end with a few loops of
Kapton tape. This will help prevent the thermistor from
being pulled out of the hot end if the wiring were to snag
on something. If the thermistor comes out of the hot end
while it's powered up, the PEEK section (the tan part) of
the hot end
WILL BE DESTROYED
when the hot end
temperature exceeds 247 degrees Celsius.
The reason this happens is due to the firmware on the controller trying to get the hot end to it's
target temperature based on a thermistor input that is no longer close enough to the heater block to
return a reliable reading.
When you've got the heater block wrapped, go
ahead and throw a loop around the upper hot section (the
aluminum barrel portion). This will act as a bit of
insulation to prevent the PEEK fan from inadvertently
cooling down the hot end while in operation.
Checkpoint Video #14
11.3 – Wiring the Hot End
For this task, you'll need the completed hot end and two 22-16ga un-insulated crimp connectors.
11 – Installing the Hot End and Bowden Tube – 100
Fig. 11.2-1: RTV'd Hot End.
Fig. 11.2-2: Heater block and hot section
wrap.
