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Thom Hogan’s Complete Guide to the Nikon D300
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shoot, it’s probably better to use multiple
CompactFlash cards, though you’ll need to be careful
in labeling them.
For example, if in the morning you shot at the zoo,
then in the afternoon went to a museum to shoot, save
your zoo photos on one CompactFlash card. Then,
before starting to shoot at the museum, take that card
out and put in a new one. (If your memory is like
mine, you probably ought to write this down and label
your cards, just in case a few days pass before you can
get the images off the CompactFlash card. The trick I
use is to bring a bunch of small envelopes with me,
and then I just put the card in the envelope, label the
envelope, and seal it. Any sealed envelope I
encounter obviously has a shot card in it.)
2.
On your computer, create descriptive folder names
that match the locales you shot in (e.g. in the
example, I’d create folders named
PhillyZooApril01
and
MomaApril01
on my computer; I add the month
and year to the folder name because I often revisit the
same sites; also, these folders live in a folder hierarchy
that helps me re-find them: e.g.
US/PA/Philadelphia/PhillyZoo/PhillyZooApril01
).
3.
Put each CompactFlash card you shot into your
computer’s card reader and use a renaming-capable
program such as Nikon Transfer to move images from
the card to your computer
65
. Personally, I use Adobe
Lightroom’s import function, and it offers a flexible
renaming function, as well.
65
One nice thing about Nikon Transfer’s renaming is that it correctly assigns the same
name to both files when you shoot one of the
NEF+JPEG
options. Thus, you end up
with file names such as
PhillyZoo_0001.JPG
and
PhillyZoo_0001.NEF
. One bad thing
about Nikon Transfer is that it always places both files in the same folder. I prefer
having my preview files (JPEGs) in a different folder than my “negatives” (NEFs).
Macintosh users have an answer, though: download the
SeparateJPEGs
Automator
action from the Apple Web site.
