V1.02
Thom Hogan’s Complete Guide to the Nikon D300
Page 168
The worst case I’ve seen for a single D300 NEF file is a
1.25x change (e.g. if 24 frames remain, you really get 30 on
the card). So we can generally assume that you’ll get
something between those two values for
Lossless
compressed
. Personally I multiply by 1.5 and then watch
carefully when the indicator gets below 10.
Worse still, the Frames Remaining indicator may also go to 0
while any form of compressed NEF image is being written to
a nearly full card, but after completing the write, the Frames
Remaining indicator may pop back up to 1 or 2. This has
ramifications in continuous shooting, as the camera won’t
shoot if it thinks there are no frames remaining, even if this
is only a temporary condition.
Yes, this is very annoying, and it’s been a problem for
compressed NEFs on almost every Nikon DSLR to date.
NEF Recommendations
Basically, you have two choices you need to make if you
shoot NEF: bit-depth and compression.
The gains made from 14-bit versus 12-bit in image quality
only show up in a few circumstances. In general, you’ll
clearly see the difference only if you have to bring up deep
shadows by many stops. A low contrast image properly
exposed wouldn’t show any visible difference, even after
large adjustments. A high contrast image underexposed and
needing substantive exposure change in the shadows may
show visible differences in the deepest shadows.
In the highlight realm there is also a very small difference in
bit values between 12-bit and 14-bit, but here it is generally
too small to make visible during even extreme image
processing.
I certainly use 14-bit when I shoot high dynamic range (HDR)
image brackets, as I want even the underexposed images to
have the cleanest data possible before integration into a single
image. Shooting other NEF images, I tend to use 12-bit unless