137
to remove a small channel recess, as
highlighted in black below. Use a small
dremel router bit to route this relief
channel – remove a small amount then
test if the flanges sit flush on the rails.
Once the retract flange can sit flush on
the rails you’re ready to make some final
alignment tests. One way to do this is to
insert a perfectly straight, solid rod (.24”
dia. solid carbon fiber, for example) into
each axel hole so that the two gear are
aligned in comparison to each other
(shown in the photo below).
If you don’t have a carbon rod you can
just eyeball this process making sure
each retract is positioned to give its tire
the same amount of toe in/out. Ideally,
you want either no toe in/out or just a
degree or two of toe in.
At this time, your testing that you can
position the retract unit inside of the rails
to achieve relative gear alignment. If
the retract’s side plate/fasteners hit the
rails and prevent proper alignment, then
you know that a shallow relief notch is
needed. Make any needed relief
notches before you glue in the rails – it’s
easier that way.
4. Once you know that your retracts can
be positioned correctly, you can use 30
minute epoxy to glue in your rails. To
help keep the glue from dripping into the
wheel well, place one edge of a 1” strip
of masking tape on the bottom surface
of the rail between the ribs.
Once you have applied glue to the
mating surfaces of the rail insert the rail
in position then press the other half of
the tape onto the spar sleeve (front) and
foam side wall (rear). Using some scrap
foam to apply pressure against the rails
(shown above) will help ensure a good
bond. Add more epoxy as needed.
5. Once the glue is cured, position and
align the gear, then drill holes for your
retract screws (we recommend #8 x ½”
wood screws). Mount the retracts with
screws as shown below. Note: The
production retracts will not have the
extra outboard flange holes.
Summary of Contents for T-34C TURBO MENTOR
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