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Appliqué
1. Decoration of trimming cut from one piece of fabric and stitched to another to add dimension and tex-
ture. Designs with appliqué and embroidery can be more economical than embroidery alone. If appli-
qué occupies a significant amount of the design, the stitch count is lower.
2. In Schiffli embroidery, an embroidered motif is hand-cut or stitched away from the base fabric.
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Backing
Woven or non-woven material used underneath the garment or fabric being embroidered to provide sup-
port and stability. Can be hooped with the item or placed between the machine throat plate and the
hooped garment. Available in two basic types: cutaway and tearaway, both in various weights.
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Bean stitch
Three stitches placed back and forth between two points. Often used for outlining because it eliminates
the need for digitizing a single-ply running stitch outline three times.
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Birdnesting
Collection of thread between goods and needle plate, resembling a bird’s nest. Formation of a birdnest
prevents the free movement of goods and may be caused by inadequate tensioning of the top thread, the
top thread not going through the take-up lever, the top thread not following the thread path correctly, or
flagging goods.
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Blatt stitch
Schiffli term meaning “to feed the yarn” therefore producing a long zigzag stitch with threads laying close
together. Adapted for multi-head use. See
Satin stitch.
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Bobbin
Spool or reel that holds the bobbin thread, which helps to form stitches on the underside of the fabric
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Bonnaz
Chain stitch machine developed in the 1800s. Named for its French inventor Emilie Bonnaz, and first man-
ufactured by the Cornely Co. of France.
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Boring
Open-work incorporated into embroidered designs. A sharp pointed instrument punctures, or bores the
fabric, and stitches are made around the opening to enclose the raw edges.
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Buckram
Coarse woven fabric stiffened with glue and used to stabilize fabric for stitching. Commonly used in caps
to hold the front panel erect.
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Cartoon
Finished artwork of an embroidery design to be digitized. Usually six times larger than the finished design
size, based on the art-to-stitching ratio historically used in the schiffi industry.
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Ceeding stitch
See
Fill stitch.
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Chain stitch
Stitch that looks like a chain link formed with one thread fed from the bottom side of the fabric done on a
manual or computerized machine with a hook that functions like a needle.
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Chenille
Form of embroidery in which a loop stitch is formed on the top side of the fabric. Uses heavy yarns of
wool, cotton, or acrylic. Created by a chain stitch machine that has been adjusted to form this stitch type.
Also known as loop piling.
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Column stitch
Formed by closely placed zigzag stitches and often used to form borders. Also known as steil stitch. See
Satin stitch.
Chapter 43: Glossary of Embroidery Terms
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