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■

Charge the battery pack in a location where the ambient
temperature is between 10°C and 38°C.

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Store the battery pack in a location where the ambient
temperature is between 0°C and 20°C.

INSTRUCTIONS CONCERNING THE PROPER
TECHNIQUES FOR BASIC FELLING, LIMBING,
AND CROSS-CUTTING

UNDERSTANDING THE FORCES WITHIN THE WOOD

When you understand the directional pressures and
stresses inside the wood, you can reduce the pinches or at
least expect them during your cutting. Tension in the wood
means the

bres are being pulled apart, and if you cut in this

area, the kerf or cut tends to open as the saw goes through.
If a log is being supported on a saw-horse and the end is
hanging unsupported over the end, tension is created on
the upper surface due to the weight of the overhanging log
stretching the

bres. Likewise, the underside of the log is

compressed and the

bres are being pushed together. If a

cut is made in this area, the kerf tends to close up during
the cut. This cut would pinch the blade.

PUSH AND PULL

The reaction force is always opposite to the direction the
chain is moving. The operator must be ready to control the
tendency for the product to pull away and push backwards.
The product pulls away (forward motion) when cutting on
the bottom edge of the bar. The product pushes backwards
(towards the operator) when cutting along the top edge.

SAW JAMMED IN THE CUT

Turn o

ﬀ

the product, and remove the battery pack. Do not

try to force the chain and bar out of the cut as this is likely
to break the chain, which may swing back and strike the
operator. This situation normally occurs because the wood
is incorrectly supported, which forces the cut to close under
compression, thereby pinching the blade. If adjusting the
support does not release the bar and chain, use wooden
wedges or a lever to open the cut and release the saw.
Never try to start the chainsaw when the guide bar is
already in a cut or kerf.

SKATING/BOUNCING

When the chainsaw fails to dig in during a cut, the guide
bar can begin hopping or dangerously skidding along the
surface of the log or branch, possibly resulting in the loss
of control of the chainsaw. To prevent or reduce skating or
bouncing, always use the saw with both hands. Make sure
that the saw chain establishes a groove for cutting.
Never cut small,

exible branches or brushes with your

chainsaw. Their size and

exibility can easily cause the

saw to bounce towards you or bind up with enough force
to cause a kickback. The best tool for that kind of work is
a hand saw, an axe, pruning shears, or other hand tools.

FELLING A TREE

When bucking and felling operations are being performed
by two or more persons at the same time, the felling
operations should be separated from the bucking operation
by a distance of at least twice the height of the tree being
felled. Trees should not be felled in a manner that would
endanger any person, strike any utility line, or cause any
property damage. If the tree does make contact with any
utility line, the company should be noti

ed immediately.

The chainsaw operator should keep on the uphill side of
the terrain as the tree is likely to roll or slide downhill after
it is felled.
An escape path should be planned and cleared as
necessary before cuts are started. The escape path should
extend back and diagonally to the rear of the expected line
of fall.

Before felling starts, consider the natural lean of the tree,
the location of larger branches, and the wind direction to
judge which way the tree will fall.
Remove dirt, stones, loose bark, nails, staples, and wire
from the tree.
Do not attempt to fell trees which are rotten or have been
damaged by wind,

re, lightning, etc. This is extremely

dangerous and should only be completed by professional
tree surgeons.

1. Notching

undercut

Make the notch 1/3 the diameter of the tree,
perpendicular to the direction of the fall. Make the
lower horizontal notching cut first. This will help to avoid
pinching either the saw chain or the guide bar when the
second notch is being made.

2. Felling-back cut

Make the felling-back cut at least 50 mm (2 in.) higher
than the horizontal notching cut. Keep the felling-back
cut parallel to the horizontal notching cut. Make the
felling back cut so enough wood is left to act as a hinge.
The hinge wood keeps the tree from twisting and falling
in the wrong direction. Do not cut through the hinge.

As the felling gets close to the hinge, the tree should begin
to fall. If there is any chance that the tree may not fall in
the desired direction or it may rock back and bind the saw
chain, stop cutting before the felling-back cut is complete
and use wedges of wood, plastic or aluminium to open the
cut and drop the tree along the desired line of fall.
When the tree begins to fall, remove the chainsaw from the
cut, stop the motor, put the chainsaw down, and use the
retreat path planned. Be alert for falling overhead limbs and
watch your footing.

5 cm (2 inch)

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