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will increase high-speed steering and make the truck better in bumps. Too short of a front link may make the truck feel twitchy or
"wandery" meaning that it may be difficult to drive straight at high speed.
Front Shock Location can be adjusted easily by simply moving top of the shock to another hole in the shock tower. The standard
location (second hole out in the tower) works best on most tracks. Moving the top of the shock out one hole will result in an
increase in steering and the truck will react quicker. Moving the top of the shock to the inside hole in the tower will slow the
steering response time and make the truck smoother in bumps.
The bottom of the shock can also be moved in or out on the suspension arm. Moving the bottom of the shocks to the
inside hole in the arm will result in more low-speed steering and less high-speed steering. Mounting the shocks in the inside hole
will require limiters in the shocks to limit the travel, and the springs should be changed to stiffer ones. Moving the bottom of the
shocks to the outside hole will reduce overall travel, increase high-speed steering, and reduce low-speed steering. This position
may be good for oval tracks and high-traction surfaces.
Rear Shock Location can be changed just as easily as the front. Again, the standard location is the best place to start for most
tracks. Moving the top of the shock in on the shock tower results in less side-bite (traction in corners) but makes the truck
smoother in bumps. Sometimes a stiffer spring is used in combination with the inside holes inthe tower. Moving the top of the
shocks to the outside hole will give the truck more forward traction and side bite as well as keeping the truck from bottoming out
on big jumps. A softer spring should be used if the shocks are mounted in the outer hole in the tower.
Moving the bottom of the rear shocks to the outside hole in the arm will improve stability but may not handle bumps as
well. You may also notice that the truck is faster in the turns. The downside is that the truck will not straighten out or "square up"
as well. Moving the shocks to the inside hole will increase forward traction and be more stable in bumps. At times a stiffer spring
or a sway bar (LOSA4142) may be needed when moving the shock in on the arm.
Rear Anti-Squat is one of the most commonly used adjustments of the XXX-T MF2. As per assembly instructions, there is 2
degrees of antisquat. Removing one shim will result in 1 degree of anti-squat. Less anti-squat will have more side bite and less
forward traction. Less anti-squat will also cause the car not to jump as high off of large jumps. Removing all shims will result in
0 degrees of anti-squat, this will increase the affects felt when moving from 2 to 1 degree.
Rear Hub Spacing can be adjusted by moving the spacers at the front and rear of the hub carrier. You will probably find that the
middle (standard) location works best on just about every track. Spacing the hub back will give you less forward traction and
more on power steering. This will help on large high speed flowing tracks where corner speed is immensely needed. Moving the
hubs forward will increase forward traction and help the truck initiate corner entry. This can be good on tight dusty track
conditions.
Battery Location is sometimes overlooked, but can be a useful adjustment. Start by running the battery spaced in the middle.
Moving the battery back can improve rear traction on slippery tracks. Moving the battery back too far can cause the rear end to
swing though turns on some tracks. This is a result of having the weight too far back. Moving the battery forward will give the
truck less forward traction, but it will gain on power steering. Moving the battery forward should also smooth out the steering a
little. This may be good on high bite tracks.
Arm Length Adjustment (VLA), the XXX-T MF2 is like having four trucks in one. With the addition of a longer rear arm
position and a shorter front arm position you can have many different setups to suit your driving and handling needs. The kit
setup comes with the long rear arm position and a standard length front arm position. The new hole on the front arm is actually
the inner hole (shorter arm). We have done many hours of testing and found that the kit setup is the best all-around setup for
most tracks.
Shortening the front arm length will give you less steering, and the truck will drive much smoother. This can be good on
tracks where the front of the truck feels twitchy, such as high-bite; blue-groove tracks. One thing to keep in mind is; as you
shorten the front arm, you are actually making the camber link longer in relation to the front arm. Knowing this, you may want
to shorten the front camber link when using the short arm location. The longer front arm setting (stock setup) will have more all-
around steering, which is key on tracks where front grip is important.
Shortening the rear arm length will give you more forward traction and the truck will have a more aggressive feel. This
can be good on dusty; low-bite conditions. Like the front arm lengths, as you shorten the rear arm, you will want to keep in mind
the relation of the rear camber link length to that of the arm. You may be able to attain a more balanced feel by changing camber
link positions. The longer rear arm (stock setup) setting will give you less forward traction and more side bite. This will be good
on large sweeping tracks, where corner speed is so important.
We are sure that you will find the XXX-T MF2 to be the most versatile and easiest truck to drive fast with great consis-
tency. We at Team Losi hope this information helps you to enjoy your XXX-T MF2 and racing as much as we do. For the latest in
setup and accessory parts information, visit the Team Losi website at: www.TeamLosi.com
