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Adjusting the Slipper should be done after the diff is properly adjusted. If you have just finished adjusting the differential,
loosen the slipper adjustment nut four full turns (e.g., 360 degrees x 4) to return the adjustment to the setting originally described
in the assembly instructions. To make the final adjustments, place your truck on the racing surface and give the truck full throttle.
The slipper should slip for one or two feet. If the slipper slips for more than two feet, you’ll need to tighten the adjustment nut.
If the slipper doesn’t slip for at least one foot, back off the adjustment nut 1/8 of a turn and retry. If you can’t hear the slipper
when you punch the throttle, hold the front of the truck with the rear wheels still on the track and give the truck full throttle. The
truck should push against your hand with reasonable force and the slipper only slipping slightly. Don't expect the slipper to make
up for poor driving or set-up. You still have to use the throttle and maintain the shocks and chassis. The slipper will help you
drive more comfortably and help accelerate of corners and land jumps.
The Most Sensitive Adjustments, and the most used by the Team Losi race team, are the number of washers under the front
camber link ball studs and the anti-squat. See these two sections and try to familiarize yourself with the way that these adjust-
ments affect the handling of the XXX-T MF2.
Ride Height is an adjustment that affects the way your truck jumps, turns, and goes through bumps. To check the ride height,
drop one end (front or rear) of the truck from about a 5-6 inch height onto a flat surface. Once the car settles in to a position,
check the height of that end of the car in relationship to the surface. To raise the ride height, lower the shock adjuster nuts on the
shocks evenly on the end (front or rear) of the truck you are working on. To lower the ride height, raise the shock adjuster nuts.
Both left and right nuts should be adjusted evenly.
You should start with the rear ride height where the truck comes to a rest at a height where the dogbones are slightly below
level with the surface. The front ride height should be set so that the bottom of the chassis is level with the surface. Occasionally,
you may want to raise the front ride height to get a little quicker steering reaction, but be careful as this can also make the car flip
over more easily. Every driver likes a little different feel so you should try small ride height adjustments to obtain the feel you
like. We have found that ride height is really a minor adjustment. This should be one of the last adjustments after everything else
has been dialed in. Do not use ride height adjustment as a substitute for a spring rate. If your truck needs a softer or firmer spring,
change the spring. Do not think that simply moving the shock nuts will change the stiffness of the spring; it will not!
Rear Hub Camber Location is best set according to the settings described in this manual. You should start with the inner hole
in the top of the hub (hole "A"). As you move out on the hub, it will tend to make the truck feel a bit stiffer. This results in the
truck accelerating straighter and also makes it a bit easier to line up for jumps. Running the inner hole will typically make the
truck go through bumps better. The inner hole may also give the feeling of more steering. This steering generally comes from the
rear end though. What this means is that the rear end of the truck may swing a bit more — at times even sliding more.
Rear Camber Link Length can be another useful adjustment. It is virtually impossible to make a blanket statement for exactly
how the length of the camber link will affect the handling under all conditions. The following is our experience with how the
length of the camber link will typically affect the handling of the XXX-T MF2. A longer rear camber link will usually result in
more rear traction. With a longer link, the truck can start to drive more square, or point-to-point. This can make it difficult to
carve corners at high speed. A shorter rear camber link will generally result in more steering from the rear of the car due to
increased chassis roll. This can make it easier to change directions quicker, but can cause the rear of the truck to roll around if the
link is too short. A shorter rear link will usually go through bumps a bit better than a long link as well.
Front Carrier Camber Location is another adjustment that is almost always run in the middle location. This location keeps the
truck flatter with less roll. The outside location also helps the truck stay tighter in turns with a more precise steering feel. Moving
the link to the inner hole will make the steering react slightly slower. The advantage to the inner hole is that it can increase on-
power steering and help the truck get through bumps better.
Washers Under the Front Camber Link Ball Stud can be added or removed. This is one of the most important adjustments on
the XXX-T MF2 Truck. You should get a feel for how the number of washers affects the handling. Adding washers will make the
truck more stable and keep the front end flatter. Removing washers will make the steering more aggressive. This can be good in
some conditions, but can also make the truck difficult to drive in others. The best all-around adjustment is with two washers as
per the assembly instructions.
Front Camber Link Length is another adjustment that is difficult to make a generic statement for as it can have slightly
different results on various conditions. The following is a summary of how this adjustment will usually impact the handling of
the XXX-T MF2. A longer front camber link will usually make the truck feel stiffer. This will help keep the truck flatter with less
roll, but can make the truck handle worse in bumpy conditions. A shorter front camber link will result in more front end roll. This
