ECO-MATIC ESC 16, Operating Instructions Manual

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14
Water Testing • What to Test For • Recommended Levels (Continued)
Why Conditioner? Low levels of conditioner causes loss of sanitizer, especially in sunny locations. Low
conditioner levels mean your ECO-matic will have to work harder (produce more sanitizer)
in order to achieve and maintain correct sanitizer levels. Indoor pools need very low or no
conditioner, stabilizer, or cyanuric acid (some states have prohibited it’s use on indoor pools),
check with your local health department or pool supply store.
How to Adjust Add cyanuric acid to the water. Get instructions as to how to add conditioner from your pool
service or local pool supply store. Give 48 hours to dissolve, don’t backflush filter too soon.
Alternative is to dissolve into warm water and pour into pool. Another idea – get your pool
service to do it.
Total Hardness (TH)
Ideal Range Concrete and Tiled Pools: 200-275ppm. Other surfaces: 100-225ppm
How to Test Some pool Test Kits include this Test. You can purchase Total Hardness Test Kits.
Frequency of Testing The water used to fill your pool has its own TH, depending upon its source. Over time, the
TH of the pool water will increase as the Hardness is left in the pool when water evaporates.
Fill water adds more Hardness. Test at least once or twice per year.
When to adjust TH If the TH of the pool water is greater than 500 ppm, and is 300 ppm above the TH of the fill
water, it is recommended that you dump the water and re-fill the pool.
How to Adjust TH Replacing the water is the only way to reduce the TH of the pool water. Be sure to consult
your pool builder or pool service before emptying your pool. Serious structural damage can
result if pools are emptied in certain ground conditions and ground water levels.
Calcium Hardness Always maintain calcium hardness within the range suggested by your pool builder or pool
service.
Phosphates
Phosphates in swimming pool water can reduce the level and effectiveness of sanitizer in pools, causing the ECO-matic
to work harder than necessary; any amount (over 50 ppb) of phosphate should be removed by using a phosphate-
removing chemical available at your local pool supple. We recommend having your pool water tested for phosphates
annually to insure good performance and long cell life.
Trouble Shooting
ECO-matic Not Working
1. No power getting to ‘Power Pack’ (Main power
OFF).
2. ECO-matic switched OFF.
3.
System Control set to MIN.
4. Blown fuse(s).
5.
Gas Sensor Lead not connected securely. Scale
build-up on Gas Sensor bolt head.
6. ECO-matic has Cut-out – insufficient Salt in
the water, or ‘Cell’ needs cleaning, or water
temperature cold.
7. ‘Cell’ needs replacing.
Rapid Salt Loss
1. Check for leaks in pool. Turn off any automatic fill
device, check for water loss.
2. Heavy rain can dilute salt level.
ECO-matic Producing, But Sanitizer Level Low
1. ‘Cell’ dirty.
2.
System Control set too low.
3. Insufficient operating time.
4. Low Salt level.
5. Conditioner level too low.
6. Filter pump needs cleaning.
7. Poor flow rate may be creating air pocket in ‘Cell’.
8. Check for nitrates and phosphates.
9. Winter Mode on during swimming season.
ECO-matic Scaling Too Frequently
1. Total Alkalinity (and pH) too high.
2. Total Hardness too high.
Water Leaking At ‘Cell’ Head
1. Loose O-ring or O-ring out of its groove.