Giving slack quickly
Using standard belay techniques, it may be difficult to give slack quickly as quick or strong tugs on the climber
side of the rope will cause the device to lock the rope. In the case that the climber needs to be given slack quickly
(like during a clip above the head), the following methods using the trigger
[6a]
can be used.
Method 1 (
fig.9a
): with the hand holding the braking side of the rope
[10]
, operate the trigger with the index
finger
[6a]
while pushing the rear plate
[1]
with the thumb; let the braking side of the rope slide
[10]
between the
remaining fingers and with the other hand quickly extract the climber side of the rope to give slack
[11]
.
Method 2 (
fig.9b
): move the hand holding the braking side of the rope
[10]
to the maximum possible distance
from the Matik and grasp the rope securely; with the index finger of the same hand operate the trigger
[6a]
while
pushing the rear plate
[1]
with the thumb; with the other hand quickly extract the climber side of the rope
[11]
.
Repeat as required.
Both procedures must take place in as short a period of time as possible to prevent the action on the trigger from
affecting the braking of the Matik in the event of a fall: at the end of the operation, immediately release the trigger
and give slack as described in
fig.8
.
WARNING: hold the braking side of the rope [10] in your hand during all operations.
Taking up slack
In case you need to take up slack in order to decrease the length of the rope to the climber (like after the leader
makes a clip, calls for the belayer to take in slack, or to control the length of a fall), pull the climber side of the rope
[11]
towards the Matik and simultaneously pull the braking side of the rope to pull rope through the device
[10]
(
Fig.10
).
WARNING: hold the braking side of the rope [10] in your hand during all operations.
Arresting a fall
To arrest a fall, hold the braking side of the rope
[10]
firmly in hand, exerting downward force (
figure 11
).
WARNING: the force transmitted to the belayer during the fall can cause loss of balance and/or lifting
from the ground.
WARNING: hold the braking side of the rope [10] in your hand during all operations.
Pausing the climber
In case the climber needs to pause and hang on the rope, take up slack and hang on to the rope (
fig.12-b)
.
During the pause always keep your attention on the climber and always keep the braking side of the rope in your
hand
[10]
.
WARNING: hold the braking side of the rope [10] in your hand during all operations.
Lowering
Take up slack and hang on the rope (
fig.12-b
); when you can feel that the climber is also hanging on the rope,
lowering can begin.
Always keeping the braking side of the rope
[10]
in hand, gradually pull the actuating lever
[4]
to start the
lowering: the actuating lever
[4]
allows the speed of the lowering to be controlled, but it is always the hand of the
belayer holding the braking side of the rope
[10]
that controls the sliding of the rope through the device (
fig.12c
).
When the lever is released
[4]
, the movable cam is free to reengage and lock the rope. Pulling the actuating
lever
[4]
excessively will cause the anti-panic device to be activated and the movable cam will reengage and
lock the rope; to re-start the descent, release the actuating lever allowing it to reset to its closed position and
gradually pull it open again (
fig.3
).
During the descent the movable cam
[6]
, the trigger
[6a]
and other components could heat up considerably from
friction: use caution.
WARNING: hold the braking side of the rope [10] in your hand during all operations.
WARNING: always tie a knot at the end of the braking side of the rope [10].
Descent with high friction
In case of lowering with high friction on the route, very thick ropes, or a light weight climber, it could be difficult to
start the lowering using only the actuating lever
[4]
, as the “GO” interval described in
fig.3
is too tight. In the case
that the belayer is unable to initiate the descent using only the actuating lever, it is possible to start the descent
by applying pressure on the trigger
[6a]
with the index finger
[1]
: always keeping the braking side of the rope
[10]
in hand while adjusting the speed of the descent by controlling the speed of the rope sliding through the device
(
figure 13
). Caution: when using this method of lowering, the anti-panic function described in
fig.3
is inhibited:
when the weight of the climber is enough to allow for descent using the actuating lever, pause the climber by
releasing the trigger and allowing the device to lock the rope, then re-start the descent using the actuating lever.
WARNING: hold the braking side of the rope [10] in your hand during all operations.
CHECKING AND MAINTENANCE
Before and after each use, check the correct operation of all moving parts including the function of the spring
action of the movable cam
[6]
and the actuating lever
[4],
and the correct operation of the anti-panic device.
Check for the presence of dirt or foreign objects that can affect or prevent operation (e.g. grease, grit, sand,
pebbles, etc.).
Cleanliness: use a damp cloth (fresh water) and clean all the visible parts, then dry. Do not use solvents. Do not
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Summary of Contents for Matik
Page 6: ...Working principles Principio di funzionamento Principe de fonctionnement 4...
Page 8: ...Partner check Controllo reciproco Contr le entre partenaires 6...
Page 10: ...Installation Istallazione Installation 8...
Page 11: ...9...
Page 13: ...Giving slack quickly Dare corda rapidamente Donner du mou rapidement 11...
Page 14: ...Giving slack quickly Dare corda rapidamente Donner du mou rapidement 12...
Page 15: ...Taking up slack Recuperare corda Avaler le mou 13...
Page 16: ...Arresting a fall Trattenere una caduta Retenir une chute Lowering Discesa Descente 14...
Page 17: ...Lowering on high friction routes Discesa su vie con attrito elevato Descente avec du tirage 15...
Page 82: ...EN 30 C 80 C C A M P spa C A M P spa 80...
Page 83: ...3 3 CAMP Matik EN 15151 1 2012 8 Matik 81...
Page 85: ...10 6 Matik Matik 6 2 Matik 6 Matik 6a 2 4 3 Matik 4 5 1 10 2 3 10 5 Matik 6 11 10 Matik 7 83...
Page 86: ...8 10 Matik 11 Matik 6a 10 6a 1 9a 10 6a 1 10 11 2 9b 10 Matik 6a 1 11 Matik 8 10 84...
Page 87: ...11 Matik 10 10 10 10 11 10 12a b 10 10 12a b 10 4 10 12c 4 4 4 3 6 6a 10 10 85...
Page 88: ...4 3 6a 1 10 13 3 10 6 4 12 4 7 6 86...
Page 89: ...6 5 2 1 1 8 12 C A M P spa X 1 2 3 4 5 UIAA 6 7 8 9 87...
Page 91: ...EN 30 C 80 C C A M P spa 3 3 89...
Page 93: ...11 3 6 5 6 10 2 6 2 6 6a 2 4 3 4 5 1 10 2 3 10 5 6 10 11 7 91...
Page 94: ...8 10 11 6a 10 6a 1 9a 10 6a 1 10 11 2 9b 10 6a 1 11 8 10 11 10 10 10 10 11 10 12a b 10 92...
Page 95: ...10 12a b 10 4 10 12c 4 4 4 6 6a 10 10 3 4 6a 1 10 13 3 10 6 4 12 93...
Page 96: ...4 7 6 6 5 2 1 mm 8 12 X 1 2 5 6 7 8 9 89 686 EEC 10 Y 1 94...
Page 97: ...2 3 4 5 6 6a 7 8 9 10 11 W1 W2 EC J 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 12 9 10 OK 11 12 95...