54
– THREADS, STABILIZERS & NEEDLES
NEEDLE AND THREAD MATRIX
Refer to the chart below to view the application range of threads and needles used for general embroidery.
Size of a needle
Size of a thread
U.S.A
Japan
Germany
Cotton
Silk
Nylon
Rayon
0.25
9
65
70 – 80
100 – 120
130 – 150
70 – 100
0.27
10
70
0.29
11
75
50 – 60
80 – 100
100 – 130
100 – 130
0.32
12
80
0.34
13
85
50 – 60
60 – 70
80 – 100
130 – 150
0.36
14
90
BACKING AND NEEDLE RECOMMENDATIONS
Fabric
Recommendations
Canvas
Use a light to medium tear-away. Sharp needles are better for longer runs. We recommend using a 75/11
sharp or normal round point needle.
Canton fleece
Use light tear-away polyester backing to maintain colorfast-ness if a garment is subjected to extensive
sunlight, chlorine, salt water or industrial laundering and bleaching. We recommend using a 75/11 light
ballpoint needle.
Coated or waterproof
Use a light to heavy tear-away backing. We recommend using a 75/11, 80/12 sharp or light ballpoint
needle.
Corduroy
Use a medium topping and light to medium tear-away. We recommend using a 75/11 light ballpoint
needle.
Cotton sheeting
Use a heavy cut-away or tear-away/wash-away. Great for children’s clothing. We recommend using a
75/11 light ballpoint needle.
Denim
Use a heavy cut-away or tear-away/wash-away. We recommend using a 75/11 light ballpoint needle.
Dress shirt (woven)
Use a heavy cut-away or tear-away/wash-away. We recommend using a 75/11 or 70/10 light ballpoint or
80/12 needles for small details.
Golf shirt
Use a light to heavy cut-away. Heavy knits require a medium to heavy cut-away; medium knits require a
light cut-away. We recommend using a 75/11 light ballpoint needle.
Headwear
Use a medium to heavy tear-away. We recommend using a 75/11 or 80/12 sharp needle.
Leather and vinyl
Use a light tear-away. We recommend using a 75/11 or 80/12 light ballpoint needle on stiff or spongy
leather (upholstery luggage). We recommend using a 70/10 or 80/12 sharp needle on soft, supple
garment leather.
Lingerie or silk
Use a water-soluble or tear-away. We recommend using a 70/10 light ballpoint needle or 80/12 needle
depending on the thread.
Lycra or spandex
Use a medium cut-away or water-soluble tear-away. We recommend using a 70/10 medium ballpoint
needle.
Nylon windbreaker
Use a light to heavy cut-away. We recommend using a 75/11 light ballpoint needle.
Satin jacket
Use a light to heavy cut-away. Cotton-on-cotton is a nice look. We recommend using a 75/11 light
ballpoint needle.
Sweather knit
Use a medium to heavy cut-away. We recommend using a 75/11 light ballpoint needle.
Sweatshirt
Use a heavy tear-away or cut-away. We recommend using a 75/11 light ballpoint needle.
T-shirt
Use a light, water-soluble or tear-away or medium cut-away. We recommend using a 75/11 light
ballpoint needle.
Terry Cloth
Use a medium-weight, water-soluble tear-away and topping. We recommend using a 75/11 or 80/12
light ballpoint needle.