K021 Instructions v1.0
Tuning
Page
78
will give more traction in the corners, while less gives more bite while the truck is level.
A good method of adjusting camber is actually watching tire wear or dirt build-up: if the
tire looks even or uniform coming off the track, then you’re close to spot-on.
RIDE HEIGHT
Ride height is how high the truck sits off the ground at rest. Pick up the whole truck and
drop it from a height of 6 inches (15 cm) or so onto a flat surface, letting the shocks
settle. To check ride height by eye, look at the molding seams in the middle of the
control arms: are they parallel with the ground (called “level”) or do they angle up or
down? If the center of the truck is lower than the hub carriers/caster blocks, so the
arms angle up as they go out, that is referred to as ‘below level’, and vice-versa if
they’re angled down. If you have a ride-height gauge, touch off just behind the front
bumper for the front and just under the transmission for the rear (the chassis will wear
underneath the rear toe-in block through the chassis life; measuring under the
transmission will be more consistent).
The standard ride height is with the front arms level, or about 31mm off the ground
using a gauge (gauge measurement will vary based on the diameter of front tires); and
the rear arms just below level, or roughly 29mm with similar considerations for tires.
Raising the whole truck up will add traction, feel better on rough tracks, and jump better.
It also makes the truck more prone to traction-rolls, though. When the traction comes
up, it’s better to lower the truck some. This makes the truck feel more direct, with faster
reactions, and helps prevent roll-overs.
Check the truck from the side using the same drop technique. This lets you see the
“rake” of the chassis: the angle from front to back. In general you want to keep the truck
flat front-to-rear, or perhaps a touch higher in the back. Lowering one end of the truck
will give that end a little more grip, but extreme differences can make the truck hard to
control on the track.
CAMBER LINKS
Camber links are one of the more complicated adjustments on any R/C vehicle, and
your SCX – 60CF is no different. On X Factory’s set-up sheets, the inside hole groups
are referred to by numbers, and the outside holes are called by letter. The more inside
the hole is, the lower the value. Thus a “2B” rear camber link is in the outside hole of
the rear bulkhead (2) and the middle hole in the rear hub carrier (B); a “1A” link would
be the inside holes in both.