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14. Apply expanding polyurethane or
epoxy glue into the retract’s rear support
cavities and to the holes in the supports.
If necessary, temporarily install the rails
to ensure you have the supports’
installed height correct. Remove the
rails before the glue cures.
15. Install a servo to the steering servo
plate’s back side as shown below. The
servo is mounted in this way to reduce
its protrusion into the wheel well area.
Install the plate to the fuse. You will
address the routing for the servo lead
later, for now you will just be making the
linkage.
16. Once the rear supports are cured,
temporarily install the rails and nose
gear.
Mark on the rails reference lines where
the rear support is and where the rear of
the retract’s flange goes once properly
positioned. Note the distance from the
steering arm to the servo arm and make
a 4-40 rod with a clevis and Z bend as
shown above– it is important to have the
rod installed on the servo with this offset
to avoid interference with the retract.
Use a long servo arm to have the
linkage deep in the wheel well.
In order for the steering linkage to be
straight you may need to make a notch
in the left side’s rear support as shown
below. Test the steering linkage
movement and ensure there is no
interference.
17. Use epoxy to secure the rails into
the rear supports and firewall notch (we
mix epoxy with micro balloons to thicken
the epoxy). Apply epoxy to the rail
where it will meet foam. Make sure the
rails are in the correct position. Make
sure that there is no excess glue where
the retract’s flange sits on the rail and
also remove any excess glue on the
firewall outside of the rail as this area
will be used to mount a front support.
You can use a clamp with slight
pressure to ensure the rail is firmly
against the supports and foam.
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