SECTION E -BODY PREPARATION-
84
It's easiest to install the engine and transmission
separately. If you have a stationary engine lift, have the
dolly wheels or the suspension installed so that the chassis
can move under the engine.
The engine/bellhousing is then installed in the chassis.
The seats and tunnel must not be in place for installation
or removal of the engine or transmission.
If it’s installed, remove the hood from the hood
hinges, recording the number of shims at each hinge.
Store in a safe padded place.
Wrap rags or towels around the front "X" brace and
over the transmission tunnel to prevent paint
scratches.
With the engine on a hoist and tilted slightly down
at the clutch end, carefully lower it onto the engine
mounts, engaging the studs on the engine mounts
into the slots in the mounting perches,
Loosely install the washers and nuts onto the engine
mount studs.
Raise the back of the engine, either by changing the
tilt of the adjustable engine lift or with a jack
underneath the rear of the engine. It must be high
enough for the transmission to clear the X member
during installation.
Install the clutch and bell-housing on the engine.
See the notes on page 35.
Carefully install the transmission onto the back of the
engine. We use long studs threaded into the top bolt holes
to help guide the transmission.
You may have to rotate the transmission input shaft to
engage the clutch disk. Immediately install the top bolts to
prevent clutch disk damage from the transmission hanging
free.
Install the starter and the balance of the bell-housing bolts.
Lower the back of the engine, engaging the transmission
mount studs into the chassis.
Removal is done in the reverse order.
Top Loader
- Front holes of trans adapter
Borg Warner
- Front holes of adapter
T-5 / Tremec 3550
- Rear holes of adapter
Tremec TKO Series, including the 500 and 600
All require an aluminum adapter available from
ERA. Depending upon whether you have a
standard-length transmission (with spacer) or a
short-input-shaft the spacer may offset the holes to
the front or back.
Trim the GM mount at the rear diagonal where it
comes close to the chassis X-member. The mount
is secured to the transmission with 10mm bolts. If
the bosses on the tailshaft are within 1/8” of the
chassis, use washers or shims to raise the
transmission.
Richmond gear
- No adapter necessary
C-6 Automatic
- Special chassis mount, no adapter
necessary
cob\man\d\transmt
Check that the engine is level side-to-side in the chassis.
Adjust if necessary.
Tighten all mounting bolts.
Removal
is accomplished in the reverse order.
Special Note for Automatic Transmissions
There is no transmission oil cooler built into the radiator.
To avoid transmission overheating you must mount an
auxiliary cooler in the system. It can be mounted in place of
the engine oil cooler or in front of the radiator.
DRIVE SHAFT
The drive-shaft is a special fabrication that may be
purchased from E.R.A. or built by a local driveshaft shop.
Driveshaft detail hints are on page 50
INSTALLATION
Use grade 8 bolts and washers, and stover nuts if possible.
Lubricate the inside and outside of the slip yoke with a
light oil. If your transmission tail-shaft uses a leather seal,
lubricate the seal with light oil also. Use EP grease to
lubricate each universal joint.
Summary of Contents for 427 ROADSTER
Page 4: ...SECTION A PARTS NEEDED 4...
Page 13: ...SECTION A PARTS NEEDED 13...
Page 55: ...55 SECTION C CHASSIS PREPARATION Assembling the chassis and preparation for paint...
Page 56: ...56...
Page 70: ...70 SECTION E BODY PREPARATION...
Page 73: ...SECTION E BODY PREPARATION 73...
Page 76: ...SECTION E BODY PREPARATION 76 ebod stripe...
Page 95: ...95 SECTION F SUSPENSION ASSEMBLY...
Page 107: ...107 SECTION G BODY INTERIOR...
Page 117: ...SECTION G BODY INTERIOR 117 eint tunnel...
Page 142: ...142 SECTION H FINAL OPERATIONS...