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Setup
Adjust the stinger so that it is level or about 1 degree negative (the prop end is slight lower).
Grease the flex cable.
Slide the cable through the strut, into the engine collet.
Leave a ¼ inch gap between the drive dog and strut.
Tighten the collet.
Wrap your receiver, failsafe and battery pack in foam rubber.
Mount the switch.
Turn the transmitter on first, then the receiver.
Make sure the trims are centered.
Put the rudder servo arm on. It should be parallel with the servo and 90 degrees to the pushrod. Use the
sub trim function, if your radio has it. If not, get it as close as you can.
If you are going to run the boat on the stand, take the prop off, but leave the shaft connected to the
engine. This will help to “break in” the strut bushings.
If you are using a new engine, you should run it on the stand before going to the pond.
This will do several things; It will allow the engine to loosen up a little, making starting a simple matter, as
well as get YOU familiar with its starting and running characteristics.
When new, the engines are very tight, and starting is difficult at best.
You will need to supply cooling water to the engine and exhaust while running on the stand.
Use the Zipp garden hose adapter on your hose.
Adjust the water flow so that there is a stream of water about 2 inches coming from the outlets.
Now is the time to check all water connections for leaks.
Under no circumstances should you ever run a marine engine for an extended time without cooling water.
Содержание VBox 2013 Edition Deep Vee Sport Crackerbox
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