
.
• Propeller
Propellers are a subject that can fill a book all by themselves! There are a large variety of propeller sizes available, and
selecting the best one to use on your KADET LT-25 will depend mostly on which engine you end up buying. Refer to the
instruction sheet that comes with your engine for a recommended propeller size. If the engine manufacturer lists several
possible sizes, pick the one that sounds like it is for a slower flying model - choose "sport or scale" instead of "pattern or
racing". As a general rule, if you are going to use a normal .25 2-stroke glow R/C engine in your KADET LT-25, you will
undoubtedly use a 9-4 propeller.
•
Radio Control System
You will need a (minimum) 4-channel radio control system with 4 servos to operate the ailerons, elevator, rudder, and engine
throttle of your KADET LT-25. The KADET’s fuselage is spacious enough that any common brand of radio equipment with
standard size servos and battery pack can be used. Be certain that your radio system transmits on one of the FCC-approved
frequencies for R/C model aircraft.
•
1/4"x8"x12" Soft Foam Rubber (such as SIG #RF-239)
Used to protect your radio receiver and battery pack from damaging engine vibration. Also used as packing around the fuel
tank and radio components to keep them from shifting around in flight.
•
#67 Rubber Bands (such as SIG #SH-747)
Used to hold the wing on the fuselage. Always use at least 10-12 rubber bands when flying. Replace any bands that have
stretched out or have become oil soaked.
•
3 Rolls of Covering Material (such as SIG SUPERCOAT COVERING)
Although the KADET LT-25 can be finished with a wide variety of covering materials (some which need to be painted and
some which don’t), this instruction book assumes that the beginner will use one of the popular pre-finished iron-on plastic film
coverings.
•
4 oz. of Fuel-Proof Paint (such as SIG SUPERCOAT DOPE)
For fuel-proofing the engine compartment, tank area, wing saddle, and ends of the wing dowels.
•
Light-Weight Wood Filler
For filling holes, nicks, and dents after assembly of the model, but before covering. Regular household "wall repair" or
"spackling" compound (3M, Red Devil, DAP, etc.) works well for this. There are also several excellent "model fillers" available
at the hobby shop. Just make sure whatever you use is light weight and sands easily. Do not use household patching plaster
- it’s way too heavy!
•
Glue
There are so many different types of glue available today for model airplane construction that it can be confusing to even the
experienced modeler. To simplify matters, most model airplane glues an be classified as one of four basic types:
1.
Cyanoacrylate Adhesives
, such as SIG CA, are very strong and bond in just seconds. Dramatically speeds up building
time! Different viscosity’s and cure times are available to suit all areas of model construction.
2.
Two-Part Epoxy Glues
, such as SIG-KWIK-SET (5-minute cure) and SIG EPOXY (3-hour cure), are super strong but too
heavy for general construction. Often used in high stress areas such as the firewall, landing gear, and wing joiners.
3.
Water-Based Glues
, such as SIG-BOND (aliphatic resin), are very safe and easy to use. Excellent for general
construction, although somewhat slow drying.
4.
Solvent-Based Model Cement
, such as SIG-MENT, is the oldest form of traditional model airplane glue. Still used for
general construction by some modelers - especially when building super light weight free flight models.
You could build the KADET LT-25 using any of these four basic types of glue. Each type has different characteristics and
advantages, and all of them will result in a bond that is stronger than the wood materials being glued together. Often times
the choice of which type to use boils down to a matter of personal preference based on past experience. However, if you
want to get your KADET LT-25 into the air as quickly as possible, we recommend that you use CA glue for the majority of the
assembly of this kit. CA glue is not only fast and strong, but it also makes it possible to do some unique things in the
construction sequence. For instance, since CA glue has the ability to penetrate into an already assembled joint, we can first
assemble the interlocking fuselage parts "dry" (without glue), then check and adjust the alignment, and finally apply CA to the
pre-assembled joints. This makes it very easy to build a straight and true fuselage in a very short time.
NOTE: The instructions in this book are written assuming the use of MEDIUM CA glue for all steps, unless otherwise noted.
In other words, if an instruction simply says "glue" part A to part B - use MEDIUM CA! If THIN CA, SLOW CA, EPOXY GLUE,
or SIG-BOND GLUE would work better in a specific instance, we will call for it.