1
2 0 0 8 K n I G h t
exterIor & InterIor care — 3
Pencil:
Erase as much of pencil mark as
possible. Wipe remaining marks with
rubbing alcohol.
Blood, Feces or Urine:
Remove these staining substances as
quickly as possible. Wash the stained
area with a strong soap. If the stain
does not disappear, rinse the soapy
area thoroughly with clean water.
Mix a solution of 50% water and 50%
household bleach. Clean the stained
area with the bleach solution. Rinse
with clean water.
WooD care
For general cleaning, regularly wipe wood
surfaces using a soft cloth lightly dampened with
clear warm water. Thoroughly dry to prevent
streaking. For stubborn stains, use a clean cloth
dampened with a solution of mild non-alkaline
soap (dishwashing liquid) and water and rinse.
Dry thoroughly, buffing in the direction of
the wood grain. Never use abrasive cleaners,
scouring pads or powdered cleansers. Polishing
products used on the solid wood surface depends
on individual preference. Always follow product
instructions.
Excessive dampness, dryness, heat, or cold
can damage solid wood finishes. Sunlight
can change the color or age the wood. Never
allow moisture or spills to stand, always blot
dry immediately. Solvents, alcohol, nail polish
and polish removers, as well as harsh cleaners,
should not be used on finished wood surfaces.
Minor damage to solid wood surfaces can be
repaired quickly and effectively with a bit of
hard work, some careful attention to details, and
most importantly, the right materials. However,
any wood repair or finishing job is best left for a
professionally trained individual.
NOTE
It is important to inform the service
technician of any products used for the
care and cleaning in the event of wood
repairs.
Sanding and Sandpaper:
The following table is a general guide, but this
may vary with wood type. The key to sanding
is using the right sandpaper for the repair that is
needed. Always sand with the grain.
Steel Wool:
Abrasive material composed of long steel
fibers of varying degrees of fineness that are
matted together. Coarser grades are used to
remove paint and other finishes; the finer grades
for polishing or smoothing a finished surface.
Nail Holes and Small Cracks:
Fill nail holes and small cracks with wood
putty or dough for unstained woods prior to any
sanding. Stained finishes require filling holes
and cracks after the stain has been applied. Putty
should match the stain closely in color.
TIP
A little sawdust and wood glue can be
used to make putty for end grains.
Scratches and Nicks:
“Quick and simple” rarely describes repairs
to stained wood finishes; however, a few tricks
used by professional woodworkers can be tried
to repair nicks and scratches.
Fixing scratches in stained woodwork:
Light scratches will often disappear when
carefully rubbed with furniture polish or paste
wax. When scratches appear lighter than the
surrounding dark-stained woodwork, it usually
means either that the scratch goes through the
stain into the wood or that the varnish is flaking
off. Deeper scratches can be hidden by carefully
rubbing with a piece of oily nut meat such as
Brazil nut, black walnut or pecan. Be careful
to rub the nut meat directly into the scratch to
avoid darkening of the surrounding wood. Color
the scratch with brown coloring crayon or liquid
shoe dye (especially good on walnut). Always
test a procedure on an inconspicuous area on the
wood to ensure no damages to the finish occurs.
Staining the scratch with iodine:
Mahogany -
Use new iodine.
Brown or Cherry Mahogany -
Use iodine
that has turned dark brown.
GrIt
Grade
use
80-120
Medium
Smoothing the surface,
removing small marks.
150-180
Fine
Final sanding prior to
finishing.
220-240
Very Fine
Sanding between coats
of sealing.
280-320
Extra Fine
Removing dust spots or
marks between finish
coats.
360-600
Super Fine
Removing luster or
surface blemishes.
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