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4.3 Nose Gear
Refer to Figure 85.
a) If no spats are to be fitted apply grease to the inside of the nose wheel lower
and upper guides. If spats are to be fitted, then leave this until the nose leg is
removed to fit the spat.
This is to minimise the risk of contaminating the rubber washers with
grease. It is best to leave fitting the spats until the end of the build,
otherwise they are likely to suffer damage during the rest of the build
(yes you will drop that hammer on it!).
b) Slide the nose leg up through the lower guide.
c) Put a large steel washer, then 7 rubber washers, then another large steel
washer, onto the nose leg before sliding it up through the upper mount.
Check the number of washers supplied, you may receive an extra one
or two. Use only the specified number.
It is important that the nose leg should be free to swivel in its guides
with little or no perceptible friction.
If the nose leg is stiff to turn due to a slight misalignment between the
upper and lower brackets try turning it around 180°.
If the nose leg still does not easily align with the upper bracket in a
side-to-side manner, slide it clear of the upper bracket and gently apply
a tweak to the lower mount using the nose leg itself as a lever. The aim
is to achieve good alignment to remove any friction in the rudder
controls. If a small tweak does not suffice, the holes securing the lower
guide may be elongated slightly, parallel with the nose leg. Do not
elongate them in any other direction, as this will introduce slop into the
position of the lower guide.
If the nose leg is still stiff to turn, smooth any protruding weld inside the
upper and lower mounts with abrasives. A small file or a flap wheel can
be useful.
Do not get oil or grease onto the rubber or metal washers, as this may
cause them to slip over each other in a very heavy landing. This can
result in the rudder control circuit feeling stiff or binding, due to
misalignment of the nose wheel steering bar.