❏
R1. Enlarge the hole in two Screw-Lock
pushrod connectors with a # 46 or 5/64” [2mm]
drill bit. Mount the screw-lock connectors to a
large servo arm and fasten each with a nylon
retainer. Connect one end of a 14” [355.6mm]
long pull-pull cable to a threaded rod included with
the pull-pull steering set using the
swage to
secure the cable. Fit the threaded rod into one of
the Screw- Lock connectors and temporarily lock
it down with a 4-40 x 1/8” [3.2mm] socket head
screw. Connect another piece of cable to the other
Screw-Lock connector the same way, then thread
the cable through the guide tubes toward the nose
gear strut.
❏
R11. Test fit the servo tray (with the servo) in the
die-cut 1/8” [3.2mm] plywood
servo tray mounts
and fit the assembly in the servo rails. Position the
mounts and the tray so the output shaft of the
servo is centered between the 1/8” [3.2mm] holes
in former F2. Glue the servo tray and the mounts
in this position.
❏
R12. Cut two 4-5/8” [117.5mm] pieces from the
white nose steering cable inner pushrod guide
tube and slide the pieces through the holes in the
firewall and former F2. Glue the tubes to the
firewall and F2.
Connect the nose steering pull-pull
Several pull-pull steering cable systems are
available that will work in your Mentor. We selected
the Du-Bro #517 2-56 Pull-Pull System.
❏
R9. Cut 3/16” [4.8mm] off the aft edge of the
die-cut 1/8” [3.2mm] plywood
nose steering
servo tray
. Mount your nose steering servo to the
servo tray, using the hardware that came with the
servo, so the output shaft is on the
left
side of the
servo tray as shown in the photo. Note that the
servo is offset toward the aft edge of the servo
tray (the side you cut off).
❏
R10. If you would like to mount your air control
valve in the same location as in our prototype, drill
a 1/2” [12.7mm] hole in the die-cut 1/8” [3.2mm]
plywood
right nose steering servo tray mount
at the punch mark.
❏
R8. If you have your air pump and some quick
disconnects handy, temporarily connect them to
your nose gear air cylinder and actuate the nose
gear with the air pump. This will give you a good
indication of any problem areas that you can
correct now.
Use this photo for the next three steps.
❏
R7. Remove the two 3/16” [4.8mm] stringers
that interfere with the wheel and strut. Use a
Dremel Tool or a razor saw to cut the firewall to
accommodate the strut. Retract the nose gear
and make sure it does not interfere with the
firewall.
Note
: Adjust the
centering spring
on
your retracts so the nose wheel is neutral and
make sure the nose wheel is centered on the
strut. On the Robart 631 strut we inserted two #8
washers between the wheel and the strut to
center the wheel. The nose wheel
must
be
neutral
and
centered
to fit between the rails
when retracted.
Hint:
File or sand a slight bevel to
the bottom edges of the rails to guide the nose
wheel, in case it is not exactly centered.
❏
R5. Use small clamps to hold the nose gear to
the rails so the pivot point (on the Robart 631’s)
aligns with the marks you made on the top of the
rails. Mark the locations of the mounting holes on
the landing gear rails.
❏
R6. Remove the landing gear and drill 5/32”
[4mm] holes at the marks you made. Temporarily
mount your landing gear with 6-32 x 3/4” [19mm]
bolts and blind nuts (not included).
-48-
Summary of Contents for T-34B MENTOR
Page 7: ...7 DIE CUT PATTERNS...
