Lister Petter TS/TR1, Руководство по ремонту

Страница: 67 / 100

TS, TR, TX engines workshop manual 67
7. Dismantle & Rebuild
TS/TR Dismantle and Rebuild
These notes are of a general nature and are included as an aide
memoir and in no way are they intended as instructions.
Dismantling
Before beginning any work on the engine drain all of the fuel
and oil from the engine and disconnect all services, including
the battery. Remove the air filter, silencer and fuel tank (if
fitted).
1. Remove the bolts from the lifting eye and lift it off.
2. Remove the cylinder head covers.
3. Slacken both ends of the fuel pipes from the pumps to the
injectors and remove the pipes.
4. Remove the injector clamp.
5. Remove the injector and leak off pipe.
Note that a washer is fitted over the nozzle of each injector.
6. Remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds and the two
gaskets.
7. Unscrew and remove the cold start pots, if these are fitted.
8. Ensure the fuel pipe from the filter to the pumps is
removed.
9. Remove the fuel lift pump, if fitted.
10. Remove the fuel filter, if engine mounted.
11. Remove the gear end side shield, the air cowling and the
flywheel end side shield.
12. Remove the valve rocker oil feed pipe and unions from the
crankcase and cylinder heads.
13. Remove the four cylinder head nuts from No.1 cylinder.
14. Lift off the cylinder head and place it on its side on a
bench.
15. Remove the gasket and shims if these have remained on
the top of the cylinder barrel.
16. Remove the push rods and tubes.
17. Fit a retaining tube over one cylinder head stud and secure
it with a hand tight nut.
This will prevent the cylinder from rising if the crankshaft
is turned.
18. Repeat items 13 to 17 for the remaining cylinders.
19. Remove the air baffles.
20. Remove the plastic dustcap in the end cover boss.
On early engines:
a. Turn the crankshaft until the spring pin of the starting
handle catch pin in the camshaft is visible through the
hole in the cover boss.
b. Tap out the pin with a suitable punch.
c. Turn the engine through 90" and drift out the starting
handle catch pin.
On later engines:
d. Remove the grub screw from the end of the camshaft.
e. Drift out the pin.
21. Fit the service tool (317-50063) and remove the end cover.
22. Remove the thrust washer and shim from the camshaft.
23. Remove all fuel pump inspection doors.
24. Disconnect the governor link from all fuel pump racks.
25. Remove the two fulcrum pins from the governor lever
assembly pivot supports taking care to retain the spring
and shims.
26. Using long nosed pliers, remove the speeder spring from
its control.
27. Remove the governor lever assembly complete.
28. emove the governor sleeve assembly from the camshaft.
29. Remove the fuel pump taking care to retain the timing shims
with the correct pump.
30. Remove the fuel pump tappet and cap using long nosed
pliers.
31. Remove the fuel pump tappet guide locating bolts from the
side of the crankcase.
32. Remove the fuel pump tappet guides noting which way
they are fitted.
33. Remove the oil dipstick.
34. Stand the engine on its flywheel using a suitable piece of
timber between the recessed flywheel and the plinth.
35. Remove the sump.
36. Remove the oil pump and oil pump push rod.
37. If necessary dismantle the oil pump.
38. Ensure the push rod cam followers are at their highest
positions to clear the camshaft.
39. Keeping the camshaft square' gently ease it out of the
crankcase.
40. Rotate the crankcase until No. 1 piston is at BDC.
41. Remove NO.1 connecting rod cap.
42. Rotate the crankcase until No.1 piston is at TDC.
43. Remove the retaining tube and gently lift off the cylinder
barrel piston and connecting rod as one unit.
44. Replace the bearing cap on to the connecting rod.
45. Repeat items 40 to 44 for the remaining cylinders.
46. Remove the Allen screws and crankshaft balance weights.
47. Remove the cam followers.
48. Replace the sump holding it with four bolts (one each
side).
49. Turn the engine to its normal position.
50. Unscrew the flywheel retaining bolt two turns using a
65mm socket.
51. Use the service tool and break the tapered seal between
the flywheel and the crankshaft, in an emergency tap the
flywheel retaining bolt with a copper hammer.
52. Using a crane if available and with the hook in one of the
flywheel fins just take the strain.
53. Remove the flywheel retaining bolt and fit the mandrel,
317-50046, in its place.
54. Keeping the flywheel square ease the flywheel out from the
housing and place it in a safe position.
55. Remove the rectifier cover.
56. Mark the four rectifier cables for identification and remove
them from their respective positions.