
TS, TR, TX engines workshop manual
41
Removing the Fanshroud
1. Remove the flywheel.
2. Remove the two nuts and then remove the rectifier/regulator
cover.
3. Carefully noting the position of the electrical cables,
disconnect all four cables.
4. Remove the two nuts, washers and distance pieces and
remove the rectifier/regulator unit from the fanshroud.
The unit will be fitted to either, the manifold side of the shroud
or above the starter motor.
5. Remove the cable clip securing the cable inside the
fanshroud.
6. Remove the six screws securing the stator and remove it,
gently easing the cable through the fanshroud.
7. Remove the two bolts that are fitted through the lower end
of the fanshroud securing it to the sump.
8. Remove the self-lock bolts.
a. On older engines ease back the tab washers and remove
the bolts.
9. Lift off the housing.
Refitting the Fanshroud
Refitting is carried out in the reverse order and it is recommended
that new tabwashers are fitted and correctly locked after the
bolts have been torque loaded to 43.5Nm (32.0lbf ft).
The tabwashers and bolts can be replaced with the current
self-locking setscrews which must be torque loaded to 88.0Nm
(65.0lbf ft).
CAPTION
If the sump has been removed, the procedure detailed
in "Replacing the Oil Sump" must be followed when
refitting the fanshroud to prevent the possibility of
distorting it resulting in excessive flywheel to shroud
run-out. This is particularly important on Build 16
engines.
2.43 Flywheel Housing - TX
Removing the Flywheel Housing
1. Remove the flywheel.
2. Remove the six self-locking setscrews.
3. Remove the fanshroud, noting that it is secured to the sump
by two bolts.
Refitting the Flywheel Housing
Refitting is carried out in the reverse order with the self-locking
setscrews torque loaded to 88.0Nm (65.0lbf ft).
CAPTION
If the sump has been removed, the procedure detailed
in "Replacing the Oil Sump" must be followed when
refitting the fanshroud to prevent the possibility of
distorting it resulting in excessive flywheel to shroud
run-out.
2.43 Main Bearing Housing
The main bearing housing is secured to the crankcase at the
flywheel end and has an oil drain which must be located towards
the bottom of the crankcase when the housing is refitted. Shims
are fitted between the housing and the crankcase to maintain
the crankshaft end float. An oil seal is fitted to the centre bore
of the housing and an '0' ring is fitted in the side of the bearing
housing to provide a seal between the housing and bearing oil
feed drilling in the crankcase.
On engines fitted with battery charging equipment the stator
is secured to the main bearing housing with screws.
If the crankshaft is moved towards the flywheel end after the
housing has been removed the thrust washer at the gear end
could become detached from its recess. This can be avoided
by removing the gear end cover and placing two suitable
thin strips of metal between the crankshaft pinion and the
crankcase.
To prevent the thrust washer at the flywheel end becoming
detached from the main bearing housing while removing the
housing, turn the engine until No. 1 cylinder piston is at the
BDC position.
Removing the Main Bearing Housing
1. Remove the centre bearing locating dowel securing screw
(A) from the fuel pump side of the engine.
CAPTION
Failure to remove the dowel may result in distorting it
making it difficult to remove at a later stage.
2. Using a fuel pump securing bolt remove the centre bearing
dowel (B); leave the bolt in the dowel until it is refitted to
ensure the dowel is fitted the correct way round.
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