background image

         Construction Manual 

www.oldschoolmodels.com 

Page 21

•  Trim along it’s flat edge. You’ll want to trim away the excess 

plastic and leave a smooth lip, roughly 3/16” wide around the 

it’s perimeter.

•  Place it on the fuselage and see if will rest flat. If not, remove 

it and lightly sand the bottom lip until it's flat. Not all canopies 

are exactly identical, so a bit of trial and error is needed to get a 

good fit.

•  If you’re going to add a pilot figure (not included), now is the 

time to test-fit, then glue it in place.

•  Give the canopy a quick wash in warm, soapy water.

•  If you're going to tint or paint the canopy, do this on the inside 

now and allow it to try.

•  Use a bit of canopy glue to attach the canopy. So it doesn't 

move while the glue cures, hold it in place with a bit of low-tack 

masking tape. 

Optional rudder skid

Included in the hardware 

package is a 3" length 

of wire that can be bent 

to use as a rudder skid.

With the ventral portion 

of the rudder, it's quite 

possible to drag this 

section on the runway from time to time. So, if you'd like to add 

this, note the sample drawing on the fuselage plan sheet. Bend 

something similar, then drill a couple of holes in the bottom of the 

rudder, spaced so the "legs" of this skid can be inserted. Secure 

with a bit of glue and you're all set. 

This completes the assembly of the Kaos. Now you’ll need to 

adjust the control throws and check for balance.

Recommended C.G. setting:

An important part of preparing the aircraft for flight is properly 

balancing the model. This is especially important because of the 

various motor/battery combinations that can be used.

CAUTION! DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP!

The recommended Center of Gravity (CG) location for the Kaos is 

4-1/8" from the leading edge of the wing, as measured at where 

the wing contacts the fuselage, and you’ll see this marked on the 

fuselage plan with this symbol. 

If necessary, move the battery, receiver, 

and/or add weight to either the nose 

or the tail until the correct balance is 

achieved. Stick-on weights are available 

at your local hobby store and work well 

for this purpose.

Recommended Control Throws:

The amount of control throw should be adjusted as closely as 

possible using mechanical means, rather than making large 

changes electronically at the radio.

By moving the position of the clevis at the control horn toward 

the outermost hole, you will decrease the amount of control throw 

of the control surface. Moving it toward the control surface will 

increase the amount of throw. Moving the pushrod wire at the 

servo arm will have the opposite effect: Moving it closer to center 

will decrease throw, and away from center will increase throw. Work 

with a combination of the two to achieve something relatively 

close to these throws that are good for everyday sport flying. If 

competing in pattern, you'll probably want to dial these down a bit 

to give a smoother appearance to your maneuvers.

Aileron 3/4” up/down (35% expo)

Elevator 5/8” up/down (25% expo)

Rudder 1-1/2” left/right (20% expo)

(

Expert tip:

 Once the control throws have been set, cut a few pieces of 

medium silicone fuel tubing (or heat shrink tubing) to go around each 
of the clevises. This will keep them from opening during flight.)

Preflight:

Charge both the transmitter and receiver pack for your airplane. 

Use the recommended charger supplied with your particular radio 

system, following the instructions provided with the radio. In most 

cases, the radio should be charged the night before going out 

flying.

Check the radio installation and make sure all the control 

surfaces are moving correctly (i.e. the correct direction and with 

the recommended throws). Test run the engine and make sure it 

transitions smoothly from idle to full throttle and back. Also ensure 

the engine is tuned according to the manufacturer’s instructions, 

and it will run consistently and constantly at full throttle when 

adjusted.

Check all the control horns, servo horns and clevises to make 

sure they are secure and in good condition. Replace any items 

that would be considered questionable. Failure of any of these 

components in flight would mean the loss of your aircraft.

Range check your radio before flying

Before each flying session, range check your radio. This is 

accomplished by turning on your transmitter with the antenna 

collapsed. Turn on the radio in your airplane, but do not attach the 

arming switch.

With your airplane on the ground, you should be able to walk 30 

paces away from your airplane and still have complete control of 

all functions.

If not, don’t attempt to fly! Have your radio equipment checked 

out by the manufacturer.

Summary of Contents for Kaos

Page 1: ...atteries wheels etc throughout the building process You must correctly install all R C and other components so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air Installation shown in the...

Page 2: ...t 1 4 x 4 x 24 balsa 4 BP8 laser cut 1 16 x 4 x 24 balsa 2 BP9 laser cut 1 16 x 4 x 24 balsa 2 BP10 laser cut 1 16 x 4 x 24 balsa 2 BP11 laser cut 1 16 x 4 x 24 balsa 2 BP12 laser cut 1 16 x 4 x 24 ba...

Page 3: ...anual and online All photos shown in this manual are of different Kaos 60 prototypes Several pieces may have changed slightly with improvements we ve made so parts may look a little different in some...

Page 4: ...to the front and the rear jig dowels Make sure you slide them on in numerical order and pay attention to their orientation The etched rib number should be at the top when properly placed Group the R1...

Page 5: ...along the wing Step 9 Wing Assembly SW2 Locate two SW2s from LP1 and LP2 These are installed the same way as the previous SW pieces just doing it twice You are paying attention to where those etched...

Page 6: ...ood to get it to fit into the slots It is a tight fit Once you re satisfied with how it fits remove it then glue it in position to each rib and to where it contacts the upper portions of SW1 and SW2 M...

Page 7: ...apply a touch of upward pressure where the jig s dowels snap into the J2 and J4 jigs You should find that the dowels pop out and you re left with an assembly that can be flipped over Before popping th...

Page 8: ...ghtly sand the trailing edge so it will continue the airfoil shape Step 33 Wing Assembly dowels Now it s time to mark and drill the leading edge to accept the wing hold dowel Using the two 1 4 pre cut...

Page 9: ...it to length giving yourself a 1 4 or so extra on each end This is used as the bottom spar and will fit into the top cutout of each rib It is STRONGLY recommended that you dry fit this first You might...

Page 10: ...sure everything fits properly and the root ribs in each wing half are touching along their entire length when assembled into a single wing Take your time and get a good fit that doesn t require a lot...

Page 11: ...ding edge Next is to cut and install the leading edge pieces Check your scrap pile to see if you have the proper length first but if not use an uncut length of 1 4 x 1 2 x 36 balsa strip Glue these in...

Page 12: ...fore to complete the elevator halves Prepare your work area Now tape the vertical fin rudder plan and a fresh piece of waxed paper on your building board Step 69 Vertical Fin Assembly VF1 VF2 VF3 Loca...

Page 13: ...as the glue cures Step 80 Fuselage Assembly F5 Locate F5 from LP5 This is attached to the rear of TR4 as shown here Pay attention to the orientation Again make sure it s held at a 90 angle to TR4 as...

Page 14: ...form the fuselage side sheeting Refer to the diagram on the fuselage plan sheets on how these notch together You ll use the same techniques that you used when edge gluing sheeting together for the wi...

Page 15: ...osition but the middle of F2 should line up with the middle of the F2 on the plans Basically what we re looking for here is the fuselage to be lined up on the centerline of the plans as well as front...

Page 16: ...106 Fuselage Assembly stab supports Using scrap 1 4 square balsa cut 4 supports for the stab These will be glued where the stab contacts the inner surface of the fuselage sides You ll glue two on the...

Page 17: ...t works of art and match each other exactly Smooth out the edges of the fuselage Because of the 1 8 sheeting and the 1 8 basswood support installed around the fuselage s perimeter you can be a little...

Page 18: ...artially pushed up through the white mounting block Slip the steering arm in place then push the nose gear wire all the way through the arm and the block Stop when the wire is flush with the top of th...

Page 19: ...a bit of medium CA glue to permanently glue the joiner into both halves making sure the completed leading edge of the elevator is perfectly straight and flat Control horns servo pushrod installation...

Page 20: ...he entire airframe with the covering finish of your choice Note that if you re powering with an electric motor you ll need to make a hole for the cooling air to escape the bottom of the fuselage near...

Page 21: ...ans rather than making large changes electronically at the radio By moving the position of the clevis at the control horn toward the outermost hole you will decrease the amount of control throw of the...

Page 22: ...Page 22 www oldschoolmodels com Construction Manual...

Page 23: ...Construction Manual www oldschoolmodels com Page 23...

Page 24: ...Page 24 www oldschoolmodels com Construction Manual...

Reviews: