Construction Manual
www.oldschoolmodels.com
Page 7
Step 21 - Wing Assembly (WS1 & WS2)
Locate one WS1 and
one WS2 from BP11.
These are used for the
center sheeting, between
the leading and trailing
edges.
Note that they are both
purposely made a little
long, so you'll need to
trim them to get a perfect
fit.
Also note that the outer (curved) edges of these pieces will overlap
R3 by approximately a 1/8" as noted on the plans.
Start with WS2, measuring and notching around WH6 for a perfect
fit. When satisfied with the fit, temporarily tape it to the trailing
edge to hold it in position.
Now work with WS1, measuring and cutting as necessary to
perfectly fit between the back of the leading edge sheeting, and
the front of WS2.
When satisfied with how it all looks, remove the pieces, the tape
and then glue these sheets in position. Make sure they are glued to
all the ribs, to the top spar, WH6 and where they touch the leading
and trailing edge sheeting. It should all be one smooth sheet that
follows the airfoil shape of the wing.
Step 22 - Wing Assembly (top cap strips)
Cut into BP11 and
BP12 are a bunch of
1/4" strips. These are
cap strips and should
be applied to the top
of each of the exposed
ribs (R4 - R10).
As there are two
lengths of pre-cut
strips, use the shortest
one that's appropriate
for each rib. Each strip
should be centered on the rib and run from the rear of the leading
edge sheeting to the front of the trailing edge sheeting.
Measure, cut, and glue each strip in position.
When you get to R10, the strip should be positioned so it's flush
with R10's outer edge.
Step 23 - Wing Assembly (flip the wing over)
Once all the glue has
cured from the previous
step, it's time to work
on the other side. To flip
the wing over, carefully
apply a touch of upward
pressure where the jig's
dowels snap into the J2,
and J4 jigs. You should
find that the dowels pop
out and you're left with
an assembly that can be flipped over. Before popping the dowels
back into the jigs, you'll need to remove the center J4 jig. Once
you've snapped the dowels back in place, you can find the shorter
J6 jig you made. This should be used to
support the rear dowel, about half-way along
the wing's length.
Also remove any/all of the J8 clips you might
have used to hold ribs in place. If you don't
remove those now, some could get trapped
inside the wing after sheeting is applied.
Step 24 - Wing Assembly (R2A & R3A)
Locate one R2A and one R3A
from LP1.
This is glued to the outer sides
of R2 and R3 respectively,
making sure the cutouts are
aligned as shown in this photo.
Step 25 - Wing Assembly (R2A & R3A)
Locate one WH5A
and one WH5B from
LP1.
These are glued in
between the WH3
and WH4 pieces
already installed, and
they should be right
up against the pre-cut hole.
WH5A is on the inner side, WH5B on the outer side.
Step 26 - Wing Assembly (WH7)
Locate one WH7 from LP1.
This fits into the pre-cut
grooves on the rear portion
of the R1 and R2 ribs.
Again, this has the engraved
circle that should be up
against the root rib and closer
to the leading edge. This will
position the pre-cut circle towards the root rib, as shown here. Glue
WH7 to the ribs and to the WH3 and WH4 pieces already installed.
Step 27 - Wing Assembly (MG3)
Locate two MG3s from LP1.
These are glued one on
top of the other, then this
assembly is glued into the
square cutouts of R2/R2A.
Push it in from the R2 side
and use epoxy for this step.
Take care to keep the pre-cut
circle clear of glue. The main
gear wire will extend into this piece in the next few steps.
Step 28 - Wing Assembly (MG1)
Locate four MG1s from LP1 and LP2. Also locate one of the pre-
bent main gear wires.
The MG1s are glued on top of each other to form a large, thick
