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Construction Manual
www.oldschoolmodels.com
Page 3
Additional Required Building Tools and Adhesives
• Drill & assorted drill bits
• Hobby knife and #10 blades
• Sandpaper: coarse (80 or 100 grit) & medium (150-200 grit)
• Pencil or pen
• Ruler
• T-Pins
• Waxed paper
• Building board
• 2-part epoxy (6 or 15 minute)
• Epoxy brushes and mixing sticks
• Wood adhesives of your choice. We use medium CA
(cyanoacrylate) viscosities, but aliphatic resin and/or carpenter’s
glues will work just as well and give longer working time.
• Thin CA for attaching the included hinges
Although an easy to build kit, our Kaos 60 kit is not for the novice
builder. We are assuming the builder is used to constructing balsa
kits and has the techniques and skills necessary to do so.
Closely inspect the supplied laser cut parts for damage. If you find
any damaged or missing parts, contact us immediately.
When removing the laser cut parts from their sheets, you’ll notice
the parts are held in place by several small “tabs”. These tabs
are uncut pieces of wood and can sometimes make it difficult to
remove a part. Rather than breaking and/or splintering the wood
by forcing out the part, we recommend removing any laser cut
parts from their sheets by using a hobby knife with a #10 blade.
A quick cut of the tab will allow the piece to be removed with no
damage. Sand any tab remainders flush with the part so there will
be no problem aligning them later.
It’s best to not remove parts from their sheets until they are needed.
Refer to Appendix A of this manual as a reference to what all the
laser cut parts look like and are called.
You’ll notice a check box next to each step. Check these off as
you go along so you don’t miss a step. Note that some steps (in
building the wing) have two boxes - this means that the step will be
done twice - once for each wing half.
There could be a step or two which leaves you a bit puzzled. If this
happens, step back and study the photo(s) for that step - both in
this manual and online.
All photos shown in this manual are of different Kaos 60 prototypes.
Several pieces may have changed slightly with improvements
we’ve made so parts may look a little different in some steps.
Online Supplementary Photos
We realize that the smaller black-and-
white photos in this manual might not
show some of the steps as clearly as you
might want. So we’ve anticipated this
and made these photos available on our
website. You can either scan the QR code
or type this address into your browser:
www.oldschoolmodels.com/mpics/ka60/
A FEW THOUGHTS BEFORE
YOU START.
We all have a top 10 list of models that were
cornerstones of our hobby in some way. For me,
the original Bridi Kaos 60 is a part of that list.
I've flown several versions including scratch-
built originals, modified versions, and even the
ARF version.
For me, the original always was the one I came
back to because of it's undeniable lines and
great flying characteristics.
So what I've tried to do with our release of
the Kaos is to duplicate Joe's original as close
as possible. It's the same outline, same airfoil,
same wing incidence, same down-thrust, same
right-thrust, etc. The only thing I couldn't match
was the exact curvature of the canopy, but the
included canopy from SIG is a pretty good
substitute to my eyes.
My changes are on the inside - updating the
internals with laser-cutting, making it easier to
build an accurate model than ever before.
But in addition to all that, I'm absolutely
thrilled with the way our Kaos flies. I'd love to
take credit, but I merely followed the road map
that Joe drew up for us all to follow.
I wonder when Joe introduced his Kaos in the
February 1970 issue of RCM Magazine, he could
have imagined the legendary status it would
earn. Well done Mr. Bridi - well done!
One last thing. The Kaos is NOT a 3D design,
and it should NEVER be seen hovering!
It was designed for pattern competition (or
vintage pattern as it's now known. And while
we're on the subject, it's a legal design for SPA
and VRCS competition and events.
I hope you enjoy our Kaos - both in the way it
builds and the way it flies.
Mark Lanterman,
Owner, Old School Model Works.