Page 18
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Construction Manual
you'll see 4 pre-cut holes into the plywood side-frame - two on the
port side, two on the starboard. Push a magnet into each of these
holes - again making sure their flush, but take care when squeezing
them in place so you don't damage the outer balsa skin. Don't
worry about positive/negative poles and attraction - that's in the
next step.
Step 118 - Hatch Assembly (H3)
This step requires attention and
visualization to make sure you
glue the H3's in place so the
matching magnets attract - not
repel each other.
Snap each of the H3's in place to
the magnet inside the fuselage,
to the flat side of each H3 is
facing upward. Now, take your
hatch assembly and hold it over this area so the wider end faces
the rear of the fuse.
Make sure you're also holding the hatch so the balsa side is up, the
plywood frame is down.
Now, one at a time, you can remove each H3, and press it in place
into the corresponding pre-cut notch on the sides of H2. They
need to stick straight up (or down, depending on how your holding
the hatch), 90° to the hatch surface.
Each should be a nice, press fit that will hold them in place fairly
well so you can dry fit the hatch before permanently gluing these
in place.
Once each of the H3s are pressed in place, dry fit and make sure
each of the corners are attracting, not repelling each other.
When you're good with everything, remove the hatch, then
carefully glue each H3 in place, by noting it's orientation, removing
it, applying glue, then pushing it back in to place - firmly seated
and at the correct angle.
Step 119 - Hatch Assembly (sanding)
When everything has dried
from the previous step, snap
the hatch back in place. Now
it's time to sand. Take the
time to round off the hatch to
match the radius you sanded
into the fuselage sides. You'll
also be sanding the top of
the firewall so it's flush with
the top and has a radius on
the sides as shown here.
This completes assembly of the Kaos airframe.
These next few steps can be done in most any order - up until
it's time to cover.
Nose gear assembly.
Everything you need to assemble the nose gear is in one package.
The nose gear wire is partially pushed up through the white
mounting block. Slip the steering arm in place, then push the nose
gear wire all the way through the arm and the block. Stop when the
wire is flush with the top of the mounting block.
With the nose gear positioned so the coil is towards the rear of the
plane, position the steering arm at a 25-30° angle, then tighten
the set-screw in the steering
arm just tight enough so it
should make a mark on the
nose gear wire. Loosen the
screw and remove the wire.
Grind a small flat on the nose
gear where the screw made
a mark, then re-attach. Use
a touch of thread-locking
compound on the screw to
make sure it doesn't vibrate
loose later on down the road
(or more to the point - down
the runway).
Nose gear mounting
On the bottom of the firewall are two etched lines. These are there
to aid in the location of mounting the nose gear block. Position the
block so it's about an 1/8" above the bottom of the firewall, and so
the mounting holes are lined up with the etched firewall lines. Mark
the position of these 4 holes and drill through the firewall. Use the
4 mounting screws and the 4 t-nuts from the nose gear bag. Mount
the nose gear block to F1 as shown above.
Main Gear mounting
Locate the two main gear
wires, four 1/8” plastic
landing gear straps and
8 of the 2-56 x 3/4” self
tapping screws. Push the
main gear into the wing
until it's fully seated in the
slot on the underside of
the wing. Then place two
of the plastic mounting
straps into the cutouts and
use 4 of the screws to mount it in place. Repeat this for the other
side.
Tank / Battery floor (TR1)
You don't need to install this
now, but TR1 serves as the
floor for the tank/battery
compartment. It's held in with 4
2-56 x 3/4” self tapping screws.
The reason for the screws is to
make it removable. You might
need to locate something
under this floor to aid in C.G. later on.
Tank / Battery compartment fuel proofing
If you're using a glow engine to power your Kaos, it is strongly
recommended that you fuel proof the inside of the battery
compartment. As you know, fuel has a nasty way of penetrating
wood, causing it to disintegrate over time. Spray (or brush) this on,
also remembering to protect the underside of the hatch and the
engine compartment (firewall and inside of the fuselage cheeks.
Power system
Installing your power system of choice is up next. We’ll show
