Construction Manual
www.oldschoolmodels.com
Page 19
setups). This will get a cooling air flow from the prop blast in to the
batteries. In the case of the prototype shown here, we cut into the
bottom planking, and made an air scoop out of some of the spare
1/8" balsa sheeting.
The tank/battery tray was
slightly modified. Rather than
punching out all the lightening
holes, any of the holes that
would support the ESC were
glued in place. Another
thickness of 1/8" light ply was
cut from the scrap and glued to the bottom of the tray. Then the
ESC was mounted onto the bottom of the battery tray. The rest of
the lightning holes were then punched out to allow for air flow and
the wires to pass through.
Some standoffs were sourced and the motor was mounted to the
firewall as shown here.
Also, we're big believers in having an arming switch/plug when
using electric powerplants of this size. There's plenty of options out
there and it's something to think about. Remember, in case of an
accident, your fingers probably don't grow back!
And one last thing - you'll also need to cut exit holes for the air to
escape. Cut these towards the rear of the fuse, preferably on the
bottom. This prototype has four 1/2" diameter holes between F7
and F8.
Fuselage Assembly (elevator joiner)
Locate the pre-bent
elevator joiner from the
hardware bag. Make sure
that this piece is perfectly
flat, and that both bends
are at 90° to the center of the wire. Adjust as needed.
Temporarily tape the elevator halves in position on the stab,
making sure the ends are flush with ends of the stab.
Now place the elevator joiner on top of the elevator halves and
mark where holes will need to be drilled (approximately 1-1/2” in
from the center of the fuselage).
Remove each elevator half and carefully drill a hole at these marked
locations with a 1/8” drill bit. The hole should be roughly 3/4”
deep and straight into the center of the elevator's leading edge.
Take care to not drill in at an angle or you risk the chance of the bit
cutting through the surface of the piece.
When finished drilling, use a hobby knife to cut a channel just wide
and deep enough for the joiner’s wire to fully seat flush with the
leading edge of the elevator.
After you’ve completed this for both halves, use a bit of medium
CA glue to permanently glue the joiner into both halves - making
sure the completed leading edge of the elevator is perfectly
straight and flat.
Control horns, servo & pushrod installation
Although you can install the servos and control hardware after covering
your Kaos, we find it easier to temporarily mount everything in place
before covering. This way you have unblocked access inside the fuselage
and wings to get the servos, extensions, and pushrods in place.
Shown in the following photo if an example of the radio gear’s
installation in one of the Kaos prototypes. Glue TR5 strips (from LP2)
where the servos are mounted to thicken the mounting surface for the
servo's screws.
photos for regarding electric and glow installations. Note that
these are suggestions only as your power system might vary from
what’s shown here.
Glow power
Mounting the engine is
a fairly simple thing. It
should mount upright
and use the thrust lines
on the fuselage plans as
a general guide. With the
nose gear block in place,
things are a little tight,
so plan this out before
drilling any holes. What
you see in our prototype
is the mighty Lee Custom K&B .61 mounted on to a Dave Brown
Products engine mount (now available from Ohio Superstar as of
the time this manual was written). Other mounts will work just as
well - use what's best for
you.
A 10 ounce tanks works
well and give a nice
flight time, although
you might be able to
squeeze some 12 ounce
tanks in. Again, plan this
out before committing
to anything permanent.
Electric power
There's a lot of choices out
there for electric power,
but we've reached out to
Innov8tive Designs for their
recommendations on power.
You'll see those on our website
for both their Cobra and BadAss
brands. What you'll see here is
their BadAss setup on another of our prototypes.
Because of the size of most 6S LiPo battery packs, you'll need
make a modification to F3 and the radio tray. Remove the inner
cross brace of F3 and the area
between the two servo cutouts
in the tray, as shown here. Doing
this will not weaken this area, as
the cross brace was only there
to help hold the throttle servo
in place. But since you won't be
needing a throttle servo, you'll
use the space differently.
Now, figuring out how to
keep things cool takes a bit
more planning. Every setup
will be different but basically,
cooling holes will need be
drilled through the firewall
(and possibly into the fuselage
around the battery area in some
