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Page 20
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Construction Manual
Take a bit of time to plan things out,
including how you'll run the throttle
and nose gear steering pushrods.
Also, to help hold some pushrod ends in place, you'll find four
pieces cut into BP2 that might help. In the enlargement you'll see
two of them glued to the back of F5 - used to hold the elevator and
rudder pushrod sleeves in place.
When mounting the servos to the both SH's you'll need to cut eight
3/4" lengths of the 1/4" square basswood scrap. Make four thicker
mounting posts by laminating two pieces together then sand the
ends flat.
Position your aileron
servo on the inside of
the aileron hatch so the
servo arm output shaft is
centered in the opening.
On the inside of each
aileron hatch, glue one
post on each side of the servo as shown in the photo.
Note that the left hatch is a mirror image of the right hatch.
Now fit the servo hatches into position on the bottom of the wing.
Using the pre-cut holes as a guide, drill four 1/16” mounting holes
into the basswood mounting posts you just installed. Harden the
wood with a bit of thin CA and you can use the supplied 2-56 x
3/4” self tapping screws to secure the hatches in place.
Finish the layout of your radio gear by adding the receiver, flight
pack battery and the switch. We mounted the receiver to the
tray by using a bit of self-adhesive hook-and-loop (not included).
The radio's switch should be mounted to the opposite side
of the muffler (to help keep the goop out of it). Or, for an even
cleaner installation, it could be installed inside the tank/battery
compartment - hidden under the hatch - VERY NICE!
Covering
Now it is time to cover the Kaos. Remove the powerplant, main
gear, nosewheel assembly, pushrods, and any other components
that would get in the way of applying the covering.
Double check that all surfaces are smooth and ready to cover. Sand
as necessary, then cover the entire airframe with the covering/finish
of your choice.
Note that if you’re powering with an electric motor, you’ll need
to make a hole for the cooling air to escape the bottom of the
fuselage, near the rear.
When the covering is complete, re-attach all the components you
removed earlier in this step.
Logos, numbers, etc.
If you want to use graphics similar to the
ones we used, Old School Model Works
has teamed up with Callie Graphics as a
supplier for pre-cut vinyl. They are a very
well known provider of custom graphics
for R/C models.
We have supplied them with the artwork
needed to cut the correct size logos. You
can order straight from them, choosing
the colors that work for you.
Contact Callie Graphics at this link: https://callie-graphics.com or scan
the QR code.
Note that Callie Graphics is not affiliated with Old School Model
Works, nor does Old School Model Works generate any income
from this partnership.
Attach the Control Surfaces
Now is the time to attach all the control surfaces to the airframe, by
gluing the hinges in position with thin C/A. We've noted suggested
hinge locations for each of the control surfaces on the plans.
When using the CA hinges, first push a
pin through on side, at the center of the
pin as shown here. This will keep the pin
centered as it's pushed into the surfaces.
When you've got all the hinges for a
surface in place, then remove the pins
and glue the hinges.
Make sure that you attach the elevator first, then the rudder.
Attach wheels
Use the included 5/32” i.d. wheel collars to hold each wheel (not
included) on the axles. For a maintenance free installation, file
a small flat on the axle where the set screw of the wheel collar
touches. Also use a touch of thread-locking compound to keep the
screw from loosening over time.
Optional canopy
Included is a canopy and though it's certainly up to you if you
choose to use it, the canopy is just a defining part of the Kaos'
outline, so why not use it?
The following steps will describe how to properly prepare and
attach it.
Typical aileron pushrod setup.
Typical elevator and rudder
pushrod setups.
TR5