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         Construction Manual 

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Page 9

noted on the plans.

Start with WS3, measuring and notching around WH7 for a perfect 

fit. When satisfied with the fit, temporarily tape it to the trailing 

edge to hold it in position.

Now work with WS4, measuring 

and cutting as necessary to 

perfectly fit between the back of 

the leading edge sheeting, and 

the front of WS4.

Also you'll see that WS4 has a 

cutout for the main gear and the 

gear's mounting straps. Make 

sure these are properly lined up as shown here.

When satisfied with how it all looks, remove the pieces, the tape 

and then glue these sheets in position. Make sure they are glued to 

all the ribs, to the top spar, WH7 and where they touch the leading 

and trailing edge sheeting. It should all be one smooth sheet that 

follows the airfoil shape of the wing.

Step 40 - Wing Assembly (cap strips)

Just as you did on the top side, it's 

time to install the cap strips from 

BP11 and BP12 on the exposed ribs.

Step 41 - Wing Assembly (remove jig dowels)

Now it's time to free the wing from the jig assembly. Easily pop the 

dowels from the J2, J4 and J6 supports. Then you should be able 

to slide the dowels out of the wing half.

If you've been a touch careless with your glue and managed to 

glue the dowel to one of the ribs, usually you can free the dowel 

by grabbing one of the exposed ends with a pair pf pliers, then 

rotating it slightly to pop loose the glue joint.

Step 42 - Wing Assembly (sand R10)

Grab your sanding block and it's time to true up the end of the 

wing. Carefully sand away any excess sheeting, leading and trailing 

edge stock or any of the spar that protrudes past R10.

It should be a smooth, flush surface.

Step 43 - Wing Assembly (T1)

Locate one of the T1s from LP2. 

The tabs in T1 are pushed into 

the two dowel holes and the 

center cutout of R10.

Glue this in place, making sure it 

is held perfectly perpendicular to 

the surface of R10.

Step 44 - Wing Assembly (T2)

Locate two of the T2s from 

BP7. Although the pieces are 

identical, there is a top and 

bottom and you can tell those 

by the etched guidelines. When 

glued in place on both sides of 

T1, the guidelines should be 

visible to aid in the installation 

Step 36 - Wing Assembly (bottom spar)

Locate one length of 1/4" x 

36" square basswood stick. 

Measure and cut it to length, 

giving yourself a 1/4" or so 

extra on each end.

This is used as the bottom 

spar and will fit into the 

top cutout of each rib. It is 

STRONGLY recommended 

that you dry fit this first. You might have to sand here and there, 

as well as wiggle the basswood to get it to fit into the slots. It is a 

tight fit.

Once you're satisfied with how it fits, remove it, then glue it in 

position to each rib, and to where it contacts the upper portions 

of SW1 and SW2.

Make sure it is completely seated in the slot of each rib. Use care 

when pushing down - sometime it's better to reach underneath the 

ribs and use more of a pinch to seat the spar in places.

Step 37 - Wing Assembly (trailing edge sheeting)

Locate the length of 1/16" sheeting you cut to a 1-3/4"width back 

when sheeting the top of the wing.

Now you'll use the same techniques to fit the trailing edge sheeting 

to the bottom surface. Measure and cutout a notch to perfectly fit 

around the WH7 piece you installed earlier. Remember you can 

always take wood off, but it's tricky to put back on, so take your 

time and "sneak up" on it, little by little until you have a good fit.

When satisfied, glue this strip to each of the ribs, the trailing edge 

and where it contacts WH7.

Step 38 - Wing Assembly (leading edge sheeting)

Locate another 1/16" x 4" x 36" sheet of uncut balsa.

Again, cut this sheet to length - roughly 28-1/2" long. Then you'll 

need to measure and cut the angle needed to for this piece of 

sheeting.

It will need butt-up against the leading edge and wrap around to 

roughly 1/2-way covering the top spar. This is a straight taper, so 

take your time, measure, measure, measure, double-check, then 

only when happy - it's time to cut.

As the sheeting we get can vary in density, you might have to 

apply a bit of Windex® glass cleaner to loosen up the grain. Soak 

the outer side of the wood to expand the fibers. Now hold it to 

curvature needed, then use a hair dryer or covering heat-gun to 

help “set” the balsa’s bend as it dries. Once dry, the you can glue 

it in position.

Glue it to the leading edge first, then to each of the ribs and finally 

to the top spar.

Step 39 - Wing Assembly (center sheeting)

Locate WS3 and WS4 from BP12.

Just as you did with the top side, 

you'll cut and glue this in place to 

form the center sheeting.

Again, these pieces

 are both 

purposely made a little long, so 

you'll need to trim them to get a 

perfect fit.

Also note that the outer (curved) 

edges of these pieces will overlap R3 by approximately a 1/8" as 

Summary of Contents for Kaos

Page 1: ...atteries wheels etc throughout the building process You must correctly install all R C and other components so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air Installation shown in the...

Page 2: ...t 1 4 x 4 x 24 balsa 4 BP8 laser cut 1 16 x 4 x 24 balsa 2 BP9 laser cut 1 16 x 4 x 24 balsa 2 BP10 laser cut 1 16 x 4 x 24 balsa 2 BP11 laser cut 1 16 x 4 x 24 balsa 2 BP12 laser cut 1 16 x 4 x 24 ba...

Page 3: ...anual and online All photos shown in this manual are of different Kaos 60 prototypes Several pieces may have changed slightly with improvements we ve made so parts may look a little different in some...

Page 4: ...to the front and the rear jig dowels Make sure you slide them on in numerical order and pay attention to their orientation The etched rib number should be at the top when properly placed Group the R1...

Page 5: ...along the wing Step 9 Wing Assembly SW2 Locate two SW2s from LP1 and LP2 These are installed the same way as the previous SW pieces just doing it twice You are paying attention to where those etched...

Page 6: ...ood to get it to fit into the slots It is a tight fit Once you re satisfied with how it fits remove it then glue it in position to each rib and to where it contacts the upper portions of SW1 and SW2 M...

Page 7: ...apply a touch of upward pressure where the jig s dowels snap into the J2 and J4 jigs You should find that the dowels pop out and you re left with an assembly that can be flipped over Before popping th...

Page 8: ...ghtly sand the trailing edge so it will continue the airfoil shape Step 33 Wing Assembly dowels Now it s time to mark and drill the leading edge to accept the wing hold dowel Using the two 1 4 pre cut...

Page 9: ...it to length giving yourself a 1 4 or so extra on each end This is used as the bottom spar and will fit into the top cutout of each rib It is STRONGLY recommended that you dry fit this first You might...

Page 10: ...sure everything fits properly and the root ribs in each wing half are touching along their entire length when assembled into a single wing Take your time and get a good fit that doesn t require a lot...

Page 11: ...ding edge Next is to cut and install the leading edge pieces Check your scrap pile to see if you have the proper length first but if not use an uncut length of 1 4 x 1 2 x 36 balsa strip Glue these in...

Page 12: ...fore to complete the elevator halves Prepare your work area Now tape the vertical fin rudder plan and a fresh piece of waxed paper on your building board Step 69 Vertical Fin Assembly VF1 VF2 VF3 Loca...

Page 13: ...as the glue cures Step 80 Fuselage Assembly F5 Locate F5 from LP5 This is attached to the rear of TR4 as shown here Pay attention to the orientation Again make sure it s held at a 90 angle to TR4 as...

Page 14: ...form the fuselage side sheeting Refer to the diagram on the fuselage plan sheets on how these notch together You ll use the same techniques that you used when edge gluing sheeting together for the wi...

Page 15: ...osition but the middle of F2 should line up with the middle of the F2 on the plans Basically what we re looking for here is the fuselage to be lined up on the centerline of the plans as well as front...

Page 16: ...106 Fuselage Assembly stab supports Using scrap 1 4 square balsa cut 4 supports for the stab These will be glued where the stab contacts the inner surface of the fuselage sides You ll glue two on the...

Page 17: ...t works of art and match each other exactly Smooth out the edges of the fuselage Because of the 1 8 sheeting and the 1 8 basswood support installed around the fuselage s perimeter you can be a little...

Page 18: ...artially pushed up through the white mounting block Slip the steering arm in place then push the nose gear wire all the way through the arm and the block Stop when the wire is flush with the top of th...

Page 19: ...a bit of medium CA glue to permanently glue the joiner into both halves making sure the completed leading edge of the elevator is perfectly straight and flat Control horns servo pushrod installation...

Page 20: ...he entire airframe with the covering finish of your choice Note that if you re powering with an electric motor you ll need to make a hole for the cooling air to escape the bottom of the fuselage near...

Page 21: ...ans rather than making large changes electronically at the radio By moving the position of the clevis at the control horn toward the outermost hole you will decrease the amount of control throw of the...

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