Page 10
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Construction Manual
Step 50 - Wing Assembly (R1 cutout)
Now it's time to open R1 to accept the dihedral
brace. Mark and cut open the rectangular area
between the upper and lower spars, as well as the
front and rear sheer webs. Refer to this drawing as
a guide.
Use a rotary tool for the main portion, then a
sharp hobby knife for the corners. Take care not to
damage the balsa sheer webs or weaken the spars.
Set the starboard wing half aside and begin work on the port
wing half. Tape the port wing plan and fresh wax paper on your
board. Then follow steps 4 through 50 to complete the port wing
half. Once finished, then move on to step 51.
Note that when building the port half that many of the parts
will need to be glued to the opposite side (the sheer webs, for
instance). Always refer to the plans to make sure you’re gluing
the parts together in the correct way.
Now you
should have
a pair of
wing
halves
that look
a lot like
these.
Step 51 - Wing Assembly (join the wing halves)
Time to get to sanding again. This time, it's truing up the root
ribs - R1 on both wing halves. A large, flat sanding block is best for
this as you'll need the surface to be completely flat and free of any
extra sheeting, balsa or basswood sticks.
Step 52 - Wing Assembly (dihedral brace)
Locate the pre-cut 1/4" ply dihedral brace (DB). Note that this is
hand cut so there can be slight variances in each one. That being
said, they're also slightly undersized to help aid in fitting. There is a
possibility that you'll have to sand the surface to "thin" it slightly as
each piece of wood is not necessarily uniform thickness.
So take some time test fitting and sanding as necessary to get a
good fit in both wing halves. Don’t take off too much, too fast.
Carefully sand as necessary to make sure everything fits properly
and the root ribs in each wing half are touching along their entire
length when assembled into a single wing. Take your time and get
a good fit that doesn’t require a lot of force.
Remember you also will have to file in the boxes build into each
wing half. Make sure they're smooth and the brace doesn't catch
on any extra glue or protruding R2.
of the T3s in the next step. Glue one T2 to each side of T1.
Step 45 - Wing Assembly (T3)
Locate two of the T3s from BP7.
The pieces are also identical,
but again there is a top and
bottom and you can tell those
by the etched guidelines. When
glued in place on the T2s, the
guidelines should be visible to
aid in the installation of the T4s
in the next step.
Glue one T3 to each T2.
Step 46 - Wing Assembly (T4)
Locate two of the T4s from
BP7. Glue one T4 to each of
the T3s to finish the wing tip
assembly.
Step 47 - Wing Assembly (SH)
Locate one of the SH from
LP2. Look on the plans for
the suggested location of
this hatch and tape it position
so it's flush with the cap strips
on the bottom of the wing. (I
guess you could make it flush
with the cap strips on the top
of the wing, but who mounts
a servo to stick out the top of the wing? Let's just do it on the
bottom.)
Step 48 - Wing Assembly (SH)
Cut four 3-1/2" and eight 3/4" pieces
of basswood from the left-over 1/4"
square you used for the spars. Glue
one 3/4" piece to each end of a 3-1/2"
piece together to double up their
thickness, and to the same for the
other pair.
Flip the wing over and lay one strip up
against the ribs on each side of the SH as
shown here. Center them along the edge so there's a little overhang on
each end.
Tack these basswood pieces in place to the ribs, but not to the SH.
Step 49 - Wing Assembly (SH2)
Locate two SH2s from LP2.
Now flip the wing back over
and tack these SH2 pieces to
complete the framing of the
servo hatch as shown here.
Remove SH, and then glue the
basswood and SH2 pieces more
permanently in place.
Cut out this
area from R1
