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Construction Manual

When finished you should 

have 4 jigs which look like 

these.

These wing jig supports 

are designed to be used 

on two types of building 

boards. If you use a 

traditional board (where 

you use pins to hold 

things in place) use thumbtacks through the tiny pre-cut holes to 

hold them in place.

For magnetic boards, pop-out the pre-cut circles, and use the 

included magnets. Note - there are 12 magnets included in 

your Kaos. Since you'll use the three larger jigs first, push the 

magnets into those first - BUT DON'T GLUE THEM IN PLACE. 

The undercutting of the circles should provide more than enough 

friction stay in place. Plus, you'll be re-purposing some of these 

magnets later on in the build.

Lastly, wick some thin C/A into the "cupped' 

areas in the top of each of these mounts. THIS 

IS VERY IMPORTANT! When these are used in 

the upcoming steps, they are designed so the 

1/4" dowels will have a slight "snap" to help 

lock them in place. Without wicking in thin C/A to harden these 

areas, they could splinter when removing the dowels.

Step 4 - Wing Assembly (dowels)

Locate both 1/4" x 36" long 

dowels. Trim 4" off each dowel 

and set these shorter pieces 

aside. They'll be used as the 

wing-hold dowels later on in the 

construction.

Step 5 - Wing Assembly (position jig supports)

Place the jig supports in position over the wing plan. 

There are three spots which are noted by a dotted 

line on the plan. The two J2 jigs are placed on the 

ends, with their flat surface facing the ribs. The 

center J4 jig is placed mid-way, and make sure that 

the large cutout is positioned towards the wing's 

leading edge.

Note that the 

placement of 

the outer J2 

jig will be up-

against the R10 

rib, as shown on 

the plans.

Step 6 - Wing Assembly (position ribs)

Locate one set of ribs - R1 through R10. R1 and R2 are on LP1, and 

the others are on BP3 and BP4.

Push these onto the front and the rear jig dowels. Make sure 

you slide them on in numerical order, and pay attention to their 

orientation. The etched rib number should be at the top when 

properly placed. Group the R1-R5 ribs together on the left side 

IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU ASSEMBLE THE KAOS 

60 KIT IN THE ORDER DESCRIBED. SKIPPING FORWARD 

IN THE STEPS COULD LEAVE YOU WITHOUT THE PROPER 

LENGTHS OF WOOD TO FINISH THE KIT.

WE’VE INCLUDED ENOUGH WOOD TO EASILY COMPLETE 

THIS KIT, BUT YOU MUST TAKE CARE TO PROPERLY 

MEASURE AND NOT WASTE WOOD WHEN CUTTING.

Let’s begin construction by working on the starboard (right) 

wing of your Kaos 60.

Prepare your work area

You’ll need a flat building 

surface that is a minimum 

of 36” long. Position the 

starboard wing plan over the 

surface and tape into position. 

Tear off a length of waxed 

paper long enough to cover 

the right wing plan and tape that into position, over the plan. 

Step 1 - Alignment triangles

Pre-cut into LP4 are three triangles. 

Two are 90° angles, one inside the 

other. The third is only used when 

aligning the wing's root rib. It's 

clearly marked as such so don't 

worry about that one for now.

However, punch out the two 90° triangles as those can be used to 

vertically align any of the parts in the construction of your Kaos. 

LP4 also includes foot pieces that can be used with the triangles to 

hold both triangles vertical hands-free.

Step 2 - Wing Assembly (J2 end jig)

Locate both J1s and J2s from LP2, 

and four J5's located in LP1, LP2 

and LP5.

Glue two J5's into J2 as shown 

here.

Then glue J1 to this assembly to 

complete one of the wing's J2 end 

jigs. Make sure the pieces are firmly 

pushed together to make a 90° 

bracket.

Now do the same to complete the 

other J2 end jig.

Step 3 - Wing Assembly (J4 & J6 jigs)

Locate J3 and J4 from LP3, J6 and J7 from LP5, and three J5's 

located in LP1, LP2 and LP5.

Glue two J5's into J4, then glue J3 to this assembly to complete 

one of the wing's J2 center jigs. Make sure the pieces are firmly 

pushed together to make a 90° bracket.

Now do the same to complete the other shorter J6 center jig.

Summary of Contents for Kaos

Page 1: ...atteries wheels etc throughout the building process You must correctly install all R C and other components so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air Installation shown in the...

Page 2: ...t 1 4 x 4 x 24 balsa 4 BP8 laser cut 1 16 x 4 x 24 balsa 2 BP9 laser cut 1 16 x 4 x 24 balsa 2 BP10 laser cut 1 16 x 4 x 24 balsa 2 BP11 laser cut 1 16 x 4 x 24 balsa 2 BP12 laser cut 1 16 x 4 x 24 ba...

Page 3: ...anual and online All photos shown in this manual are of different Kaos 60 prototypes Several pieces may have changed slightly with improvements we ve made so parts may look a little different in some...

Page 4: ...to the front and the rear jig dowels Make sure you slide them on in numerical order and pay attention to their orientation The etched rib number should be at the top when properly placed Group the R1...

Page 5: ...along the wing Step 9 Wing Assembly SW2 Locate two SW2s from LP1 and LP2 These are installed the same way as the previous SW pieces just doing it twice You are paying attention to where those etched...

Page 6: ...ood to get it to fit into the slots It is a tight fit Once you re satisfied with how it fits remove it then glue it in position to each rib and to where it contacts the upper portions of SW1 and SW2 M...

Page 7: ...apply a touch of upward pressure where the jig s dowels snap into the J2 and J4 jigs You should find that the dowels pop out and you re left with an assembly that can be flipped over Before popping th...

Page 8: ...ghtly sand the trailing edge so it will continue the airfoil shape Step 33 Wing Assembly dowels Now it s time to mark and drill the leading edge to accept the wing hold dowel Using the two 1 4 pre cut...

Page 9: ...it to length giving yourself a 1 4 or so extra on each end This is used as the bottom spar and will fit into the top cutout of each rib It is STRONGLY recommended that you dry fit this first You might...

Page 10: ...sure everything fits properly and the root ribs in each wing half are touching along their entire length when assembled into a single wing Take your time and get a good fit that doesn t require a lot...

Page 11: ...ding edge Next is to cut and install the leading edge pieces Check your scrap pile to see if you have the proper length first but if not use an uncut length of 1 4 x 1 2 x 36 balsa strip Glue these in...

Page 12: ...fore to complete the elevator halves Prepare your work area Now tape the vertical fin rudder plan and a fresh piece of waxed paper on your building board Step 69 Vertical Fin Assembly VF1 VF2 VF3 Loca...

Page 13: ...as the glue cures Step 80 Fuselage Assembly F5 Locate F5 from LP5 This is attached to the rear of TR4 as shown here Pay attention to the orientation Again make sure it s held at a 90 angle to TR4 as...

Page 14: ...form the fuselage side sheeting Refer to the diagram on the fuselage plan sheets on how these notch together You ll use the same techniques that you used when edge gluing sheeting together for the wi...

Page 15: ...osition but the middle of F2 should line up with the middle of the F2 on the plans Basically what we re looking for here is the fuselage to be lined up on the centerline of the plans as well as front...

Page 16: ...106 Fuselage Assembly stab supports Using scrap 1 4 square balsa cut 4 supports for the stab These will be glued where the stab contacts the inner surface of the fuselage sides You ll glue two on the...

Page 17: ...t works of art and match each other exactly Smooth out the edges of the fuselage Because of the 1 8 sheeting and the 1 8 basswood support installed around the fuselage s perimeter you can be a little...

Page 18: ...artially pushed up through the white mounting block Slip the steering arm in place then push the nose gear wire all the way through the arm and the block Stop when the wire is flush with the top of th...

Page 19: ...a bit of medium CA glue to permanently glue the joiner into both halves making sure the completed leading edge of the elevator is perfectly straight and flat Control horns servo pushrod installation...

Page 20: ...he entire airframe with the covering finish of your choice Note that if you re powering with an electric motor you ll need to make a hole for the cooling air to escape the bottom of the fuselage near...

Page 21: ...ans rather than making large changes electronically at the radio By moving the position of the clevis at the control horn toward the outermost hole you will decrease the amount of control throw of the...

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