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         Construction Manual 

www.oldschoolmodels.com 

Page 17

bolts will thread into this block. A few drops of thin CA will help 

strengthen and secure the threads you’ve cut. We've found this 

to be a very secure way of holding the wing in place for all of our 

prototypes, but... if you don't want to go this way, you can also 

use 1/4x20 t-nuts (not included). If you go that route, you may also 

need slightly longer bolts, but that's something you'll have to find 

out for yourself.

Step 110 - Fuselage Assembly (VF16)

Locate both VF16's from BP2. 

Glue these together, then glue the 

assembly in place as shown here to 

form the front strake of the vertical 

fin. Make sure it is straight when 

attaching.

Step 111 - Fuselage Assembly (VF17)

Locate both VF17's from BP1. 

Glue these together, then glue 

the assembly in place as shown 

here to form the ventral fin.

Make sure it is straight when 

attaching.

Step 112 - Fuselage Assembly (NP & NS)

Locate NP and NS from LP6. These will 

be the inner supports for the front of 

the fuselage - the "cheek" areas.

NP is for port, and I'm pretty sure you 

can guess what NS is for.

Glue these in position against the 

sheeting and up against F1.

Step 113 - Wing assembly (ailerons)

Locate shaped 5/16" x 1-1/4" x 36" balsa strips. These are used as 

the ailerons. Measure and cut them to length.

Step 114 - Sanding

Before I set you loose with your sanding tools, there is one area 

NOT to sand. This is the area around the fuel tank / battery hatch.

This means the top of the fuselage sheeting in that area, as well 

as the top of the firewall. Don't touch'em, don't even think about 

it. Again, there's a reason for this and it will make sense in a few 

steps. Trust me.

So with that being said, now is the time to get quite familiar with 

the sanding tools of your choice. Take the time to perform a good 

sanding, rounding the wing’s leading edge and blending it into 

the wingtips. Go over the entire wing, making sure the sheeting 

is smooth and the trailing edges are blended into the cap strips, 

continuing the curvature of the wing. Pound out the extra time on 

those wing tips to make sure they are smooth, perfect works of art 

and match each other exactly.

Smooth out the edges of the fuselage. Because of the 1/8” sheeting 

and the 1/8" basswood support installed around the fuselage’s 

perimeter, you can be a little more aggressive in rounding the 

corners.

Round the leading edge of the stab as well as the trailing edges of 

the elevator and rudder. When rounding the leading edge of the 

vertical fin, blend it into the VF16 pieces installed a few steps back.

Sand bevels into the leading edge of both elevator halves, the 

rudder, and the ailerons. And speaking of the ailerons, round off 

the back outer corners with a nice radius.

The idea is to spend some time caressing this awesome airframe 

you've created, smoothing the rough edges until it's something so 

slippery  that it will cut through the air like a knife through melted 

butter.

What you should end up will be thing of beauty - something that 

looks pretty darn close to this (but without the hatch and landing 

gear which I haven't told you how to install yet.)

Step 115 - Fuselage Assembly (notches)

In the tank /battery area of the 

fuselage, you'll see two notches 

cut into the plywood sides. You'll 

need to use a hobby knife to cut 

away balsa on the outer fuse sides 

to match. Do this for both sides - 

nice clean cuts please. 

Step 116 - Hatch Assembly (H1 & H2)

Locate H1 from BP7 and H2 

from LP4. Note that H1 has 

some etched lines on what will 

be the bottom of the hatch. 

These lines match up with the 

outline of H2.

Now glue H2 on to H1, making 

sure the back edges are flush, 

and that H2 is centered side-

to-side between those etched 

guidelines.

When the glue is setup, lightly sand the back edge so it's perfectly 

flush and smooth. Now test fit the hatch in place. Don't worry 

about the side to side overhang. The only thing we're interested 

in is to carefully sand the front edge of the hatch (beveled) so the 

hatch will comfortably sit in place, with the tabs also seated in the 

fuselage side's cutouts. Take your time - to get a nice, slop-free fit.

Step 117 - Hatch Assembly (H3 & magnets)

Locate four H3s from LP2 and retrieve 8 of the magnets with from 

the hardware bag, or from the wing 

jig stands. Push one magnet into each 

of the H3's pre-cut holes. Make sure 

they're completely pushed in - flush on 

both sides.

Inside the fuselage's tank/battery area 

Flush

edges

Summary of Contents for Kaos

Page 1: ...atteries wheels etc throughout the building process You must correctly install all R C and other components so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air Installation shown in the...

Page 2: ...t 1 4 x 4 x 24 balsa 4 BP8 laser cut 1 16 x 4 x 24 balsa 2 BP9 laser cut 1 16 x 4 x 24 balsa 2 BP10 laser cut 1 16 x 4 x 24 balsa 2 BP11 laser cut 1 16 x 4 x 24 balsa 2 BP12 laser cut 1 16 x 4 x 24 ba...

Page 3: ...anual and online All photos shown in this manual are of different Kaos 60 prototypes Several pieces may have changed slightly with improvements we ve made so parts may look a little different in some...

Page 4: ...to the front and the rear jig dowels Make sure you slide them on in numerical order and pay attention to their orientation The etched rib number should be at the top when properly placed Group the R1...

Page 5: ...along the wing Step 9 Wing Assembly SW2 Locate two SW2s from LP1 and LP2 These are installed the same way as the previous SW pieces just doing it twice You are paying attention to where those etched...

Page 6: ...ood to get it to fit into the slots It is a tight fit Once you re satisfied with how it fits remove it then glue it in position to each rib and to where it contacts the upper portions of SW1 and SW2 M...

Page 7: ...apply a touch of upward pressure where the jig s dowels snap into the J2 and J4 jigs You should find that the dowels pop out and you re left with an assembly that can be flipped over Before popping th...

Page 8: ...ghtly sand the trailing edge so it will continue the airfoil shape Step 33 Wing Assembly dowels Now it s time to mark and drill the leading edge to accept the wing hold dowel Using the two 1 4 pre cut...

Page 9: ...it to length giving yourself a 1 4 or so extra on each end This is used as the bottom spar and will fit into the top cutout of each rib It is STRONGLY recommended that you dry fit this first You might...

Page 10: ...sure everything fits properly and the root ribs in each wing half are touching along their entire length when assembled into a single wing Take your time and get a good fit that doesn t require a lot...

Page 11: ...ding edge Next is to cut and install the leading edge pieces Check your scrap pile to see if you have the proper length first but if not use an uncut length of 1 4 x 1 2 x 36 balsa strip Glue these in...

Page 12: ...fore to complete the elevator halves Prepare your work area Now tape the vertical fin rudder plan and a fresh piece of waxed paper on your building board Step 69 Vertical Fin Assembly VF1 VF2 VF3 Loca...

Page 13: ...as the glue cures Step 80 Fuselage Assembly F5 Locate F5 from LP5 This is attached to the rear of TR4 as shown here Pay attention to the orientation Again make sure it s held at a 90 angle to TR4 as...

Page 14: ...form the fuselage side sheeting Refer to the diagram on the fuselage plan sheets on how these notch together You ll use the same techniques that you used when edge gluing sheeting together for the wi...

Page 15: ...osition but the middle of F2 should line up with the middle of the F2 on the plans Basically what we re looking for here is the fuselage to be lined up on the centerline of the plans as well as front...

Page 16: ...106 Fuselage Assembly stab supports Using scrap 1 4 square balsa cut 4 supports for the stab These will be glued where the stab contacts the inner surface of the fuselage sides You ll glue two on the...

Page 17: ...t works of art and match each other exactly Smooth out the edges of the fuselage Because of the 1 8 sheeting and the 1 8 basswood support installed around the fuselage s perimeter you can be a little...

Page 18: ...artially pushed up through the white mounting block Slip the steering arm in place then push the nose gear wire all the way through the arm and the block Stop when the wire is flush with the top of th...

Page 19: ...a bit of medium CA glue to permanently glue the joiner into both halves making sure the completed leading edge of the elevator is perfectly straight and flat Control horns servo pushrod installation...

Page 20: ...he entire airframe with the covering finish of your choice Note that if you re powering with an electric motor you ll need to make a hole for the cooling air to escape the bottom of the fuselage near...

Page 21: ...ans rather than making large changes electronically at the radio By moving the position of the clevis at the control horn toward the outermost hole you will decrease the amount of control throw of the...

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