ENGINE AND ENGINE REBUILDING 111
tempt to force or pump the plunger. At this
point, oil holes in the lifter body and plunger
assembly will be aligned.
10. Insert
a Vie
in. drift pin through both
oil holes to hold the plunger down against the
lifter spring tension.
11. Remove the
Ya
in. drift pin, refill as
sembly with SAE 10 oil.
12. Install the metering valve and push rod
seat.
13. Install the push rod seat retainer, press
down on the push rod seat and remove the
Vie in. drift pin from the oil holes. The lifter
is now completely assembled, filled with oil
and ready for installation. Before installing
lifters, coat the bottom of the lifter with Mo-
lykote® or its equivalent.
Rocker Arms and Studs
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
NOTE: Some engines are
assembled using
RTV silicone sealant in place of rocker arm
cover gasket. If the engine was assembled
using RTV, never use a gasket when reas-
sembling. Conversely, if the engine was as-
sembled using a rocker arm cover gasket,
never replace it with RTV. When using
RTV, an Vs inch bead is sufficient. Always
run the bead on the inside of the bolt holes.
Rocker arms are removed by removing the
adjusting nut. Be sure to adjust valve lash after
replacing rocker arms.
When replacing an ex-
haust rocker, move an old intake rocker to
the exhaust rocker arm stud and install the
.new rocker arm on the intake stud.
Rocker arm studs that have damaged
threads or are loose in the cylinder heads may
be replaced with new studs available in 0.003
in. and 0.013 in. oversize or the bores may
be tapped and screw-in repkcement studs
used. Do not attempt to install an oversize
stud without reaming the stud bore. Studs are
press-fit. Mark IV (big block V8) and kte high
performance small-block engines use screw-
in studs and pushrod guide plates. NOTE:
If engine is equipped with the
A.I.R. exhaust emission control system, the
interfering components of the system must
be removed. Disconnect the lines at the air
injection nozzles in the exhaust manifolds.
Intake Manifold
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
NOTE:
When servicing late model vehi-
cles, be absolutely sure to mark vacuum
hoses and wiring so that these items may
be properly reconnected during installa-
tion. Also, when disconnecting fittings of
metal lines (fuel, power brake vacuum), al-
ways use two flare nut (or line) wrenches.
Hold the wrench on the large fitting with
pressure on the wrench as if you were
tightening the fitting (clockwise), THEN
loosen and disconnect the smaller fitting
from the larger fitting. If this is not done,
damage to the line will result.
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
2. Disconnect the battery cables at the
battery.
3. Raise and support the front of tibe ve
hicle.
4. Remove the coolant drain plugs from
the lower portion of the engine block and al
low the coolant to drain.
5. Reinstall and tighten the drain plugs
and lower the vehicle.
NOTE:
When servicing 1963-81 models,
continue with the following step andfollow
through to step 16. When servicing 1982
and later models, skip to step 17 andfollow
through to step 32.
6. On single-carburetor models, discon
nect the fuel line at the carburetor. On models
equipped with three-two barrel carburetors,
disconnect the fuel feed line from the three-
way junction block at the front carburetor.
7. On 1963-67 models, remove the ac
celerator rod which connects the carburetor
linkage to the accelerator linkage at the fire
wall. On 1968-81 models, disconnect the ac
celerator cable at the carburetor.
8. On 1968-72 models, unbolt the accel-
FRONT
FRONT
Intake manifold bolt torque sequence—1963-81 (small block, left side; big block, right side)
