Assembly instructions
Valdivia
Order No.
1140
-
Be very careful when using the tool SP as its sharp
point could hurt you!
Push the tool SP through the exact
centre of the shroud material from the outside, and push
the end of the prepared “batten” into the tapered tip. Pull
the tool back through the cord, drawing the thread batten
with it. Repeat the process from the opposite side. Repeat
the procedure until all the ratline battens are in place - Fig.
255.
-
The first batten in the schooner shrouds should be located
20 mm above the pin rails 24.4. At the mainmast the star-
ting height should be the top edge of the lamp board.
-
Inevitably the shrouds will tend to be out of line after you
have pierced them. Rotate the battens to and fro repea-
tedly, and the tension in the shrouds will cause them to slip
back naturally into the correct position.
-
Mask off the deck area under the shrouds to protect it from
splashes of adhesive.
-
The ratline battens can now be glued to the shrouds, star-
ting at the top. Allow the glue to set hard then cut off the
ends as close to the shrouds as possible, using a good
pair of side-cutters or nail scissors.
26
Stage 25, the booms
Part
Description
Material
Dimensions
No.
Note
No.
off
25.1
Sleeve
Brass
3 Ø x 5
4
FS
25.2
Cleat
Brass wire
0.8 Ø x 15
1
25.3
Foresail boom
Beech dowel
2 Ø x 240
1
25.4
Split pin
Brass
1 x 1.4 x 15
2
FS
25.5
Split pin
Brass
1.5 x 1.5 x 15
1
FS
25.6
Collet
Brass
7/3 Ø x 5
1
FS
25.7
Clevis
Steel
1
FS
25.8
Ring-screw
Brass
M2 x 22
1
FS
25.9
Tubular rivet
Brass
1.5 Ø x 10
1
FS
25.10
Schooner boom
Alum. tube
8 Ø x 260
1
FS
25.11
Plug
Beech dowel, 8 Ø
7 Ø x 260
1
25.12
Lacing rail
Plywood, ready made
2 x 3 x 245
1
Sheet E, FS
25.13
Ring
Brass
8/7.2 x 6
2
FS
25.14
Split pin
Brass
1.5 x 1.5 x 15
2
FS
25.15
Bracket
Brass, ready made
1.5 x 15
2
FS
25.16
Swivel hook
Brass
14 long
2
FS
25.17
Nut
Brass
M1.4
8
FS
25.18
S-hook
Brass
0.8 Ø x 7
4
FS
25.19
Sheet fitting
Brass, ready made
4 x 19
4
FS
25.20
Connecting piece
Beech dowel, 10 Ø
9 Ø x 80
1
Oversize
25.21
Mainmast boom
Alum. tube
11 Ø x 370
1
25.22
End-piece
GRP tube
11 Ø x 240
1
Thick-wall tube
25.23
Jaw plate
Plywood, ready made
2
1
Sheet E, FS
25.24
Split pin
Brass
1.5 x 1.5 x 15
5
FS
25.25
Lacing rail
Plywood, ready made
2 x 3 x 275
2
Sheet E, FS
25.26
Reefing rail
Plywood, ready made
3 x 5 x 70
2
Sheet C
25.27
Nail
Brass
1 Ø x 9
6
FS
25.28
Peak ring
Brass tape
0.2 x 5 x 20
1
25.29
Plug
Beech dowel
8 Ø x 50
1
25.30
Pulley block
Brass
5 Ø
2
FS
Foresail boom
-
Solder a piece of brass wire 25.2 to a sleeve 25.1 and
bend the ends up as shown to form a cleat. Slide the cleat
onto the foresail boom 25.3.
-
Sand both ends of the jib boom to a double taper, offset
by 90°. Open up the split pins 25.4 and fit them on the jib
boom together with the sleeves 25.1 - Fig. 256. Glue the
parts together, then finish off the foresail boom by waxing.
-
Attach the foresail boom to the upper bow timber 14.12
using the split pin 25.5 and a further sleeve 25.1. It must
be free to move - Fig. 257.
Schooner boom
-
Fit the collet 25.6 on the clevis 25.7 and tighten the grub-
screw. Shorten the threaded part of the ring-screw 25.8 by
4 mm and fit it to the clevis together with the tubular rivet
25.9. Check that the ring-screw swivels freely. Snip off the
projecting end of the tubular rivet using side-cutters and
de-burr the cut end.
-
Epoxy this assembly in the schooner boom (25.10) - Fig.
258.
-
Glue the beech dowel plug 25.11 into the other end of the
schooner boom.
-
Open up the rear notch in the lacing rail 25.12 as shown
in Fig. 259.
-
Swivel the ring-screw upward and glue the lacing rail to
the boom in line with the ring-screw using SP-T2.
-
Saw through the brass rings 25.13 in the fore-and-aft
direction, and glue the first ring under the filed-out notch in
the lacing rail. Fit the second ring with the opening facing
down.
-
Drill 1.5 mm Ø holes in both ends of the boom and fit the
