Assembly instructions
Valdivia
Order No.
1140
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Fit the wire for the jib stay 24.25 through the inner tubular
rivet 11.18 on the jib boom from the underside. Form a loop
in the end and connect it to the hook 23.19. Run the jib
stay from the right-hand hook of the dolphin striker stay clip
24.18 to the forward right-hand split pin 13.6 (in the right-
hand bulwark). Form another loop about 30 mm from the
split pin, and secure the stay with another lanyard 24.23,
which can be adjusted to set the correct tension.
-
The flying jib stay 24.26 is installed in the same way, from
the hook 23.5 at the schooner masthead through the for-
ward tubular rivet at the jib boom, over the left-hand hook
on the dolphin striker to the split pin in the left-hand bul-
wark.]
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Drill holes in the jib spreader as shown in Fig. 245 and fit
shortened split pins 24.28 and nails 24.29 in the holes.
Shorten the nails and carefully splay the ends to secure
them.
The principle of “splicing”:
in many places on this model the
rigging takes the form of 1 mm Ø and 0.7 mm Ø thread, atta-
ched by means of spliced loops. To form a loop the end of the
cord is threaded through a suitable needle, and the needle is
pushed as accurately as possible through the centre of the
cord and out the other side. This is repeated at least twice
more - see Fig. 246. The loop can be made larger or smaller
by pulling the spliced end through to a greater or lesser extent.
Within certain limits this provides a useful method of adjusting
the length of the ropework. If a rope is to be spliced to a split
pin, obviously the cord must be passed through the split pin
before the loop is spliced.
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Splice the two short strops 24.30 to the stay clip 24.18 on
both sides of the dolphin striker. Secure the splice with a
drop of SP-EX. Cut off the excess length as close to the
splice as possible - Fig. 247.
-
Place the jib spreader 24.27 on the bowsprit as shown.
Splice a loop in each of the strops, connect them to the
end-slots in the spreader and adjust the length so that the
spreader is horizontal. Secure the ends and cut off excess
material (it should be possible to disconnect the strops at
the spreader) - Fig. 248.
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Splice the bow shrouds 24.31 to the split pins 11.20 on the
jib boom and thread them through the lugs 14.9 on the
anchor beam 14.6.
-
Splice a loop at a point about 30 mm short of the upper
split pin 13.6 in the bulwark on each side. Connect the bow
shrouds to the split pins using the lanyards 24.23. Check
that the tension is the same on both sides. The bow
shrouds can now be connected to the slots in the jib sprea-
der - Fig. 249.
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The main topmast stay 24.32 connects the main topmast
masthead 23.23 to the cap (23.13) on the schooner mast.
It should be spliced into the appropriate split pin 23.26 and
the schooner stay fitting 23.21, but remember to leave one
end of the stay adjustable. If you wish the masts to be
removable, connect an S-hook 24.34 to the fitting 23.21.
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Splice the schooner topmast stay 24.33 to the schooner
masthead 23.24, thread it through the mainstay fitting
23.20 and attach it to the split pin 23.29 on the schooner
mast using the S-hook 24.34 - Figs. 250 and 251.
25
Navigation lamps and ratline battens
Part
Description
Material
Dimensions
No.
Note
No.
off
24.35
Back panel
ABS
1, die-cut
2
Sheet D, FS
24.36
Base plate
ABS
1, die-cut
2
Sheet D, FS
24.37
Rear panel
ABS
1, die-cut
2
Sheet D, FS
24.38
End panel
ABS
1, die-cut
2
Sheet D, FS
24.39
Lamp housing
Plastic
Inj.
2
FS
24.40
Lamp lenses
Plastic
Inj.
2
FS
24.41
Lashing
Beige thread
0.4 Ø x 150
4
24.42
Ratline batten
Black thread
1 Ø
72
SP
Splicing tool
Brass / beech
As Fig. 254
1
AB
Spacer tool
Scrap ABS
1, as Fig. 254
1
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Assemble the lamp boards from parts 24.35 - 24.38, glue
the joints and drill the holes in the completed units as
shown in Fig. 252.
-
Paint the lamp boards and lamp housings 24.39 (right/star-
board: green; left/port: red, outside of boards: white).
-
Paint the inside of the lamp lenses 24.40. If you intend to
install a working lighting system (not standard) use trans-
lucent paints on the lenses.
-
Fit the lamp lenses 24.40 in the housings and glue the hou-
sings in place.
-
Attach the completed navigation lamps to the lower
shrouds using the lashings 24.41 - Fig. 253.
-
The ratline battens 24.42 on the original prototype model
have been replaced on the production model by lengths of
thread hardened with SP-EX. The tool SP is used to splice
these parts into the shrouds; make it from a piece of 2 mm
Ø brass tube and a 10 mm Ø beech dowel handle. Sand
the inner and outer bevels of the brass tube to an absolu-
tely smooth surface - Fig. 254.
-
For the ratline battens on each pair of shrouds you will
need about 1.2 m of hardened thread. To harden the
thread hang it up with a weight (old, large screw clamp) at
the bottom to place the material under tension. Allow drops
of SP-EX to run along the tensioned cord, not forgetting to
protect the floor from drops of glue.
-
Repeat the hardening process, allowing the glue to cure
fully between coatings.
-
The 18 battens per shroud pair are inserted horizontally,
and should be spaced 20 mm apart. This is done using the
spacer tool AB, which is made from scrap ABS.
