ROBBE Valdivia Assembly And Operating Instructions Manual Download Page 103

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Assembly instructions

Valdivia

Order No.

1140

Drill two 1.5 mm Ø holes in the stanchion

immediately in

front of the forward hawse

, spaced 3 mm from the gluing

flanges. Repeat the procedure with the next stanchion
along. Bend the loops of the split pins 13.6 off-centre as
shown and install them in the holes - Fig. 158.

Sand the edges of the belaying rails 13.7 as shown in Fig.
161.

Before continuing with the model’s construction you should
now paint the following parts white: inside of bulwark, bow-
sprit, support block, jib boom, belaying rails and hawses.

The next step is to glue the bulwark to the model. The joint
surface of the deck where it meets the moulding must be
free of grease. Place the bulwark in position and check that
it fits accurately at the stern: see Fig. 147.

Clamp the bulwark in place temporarily using strips of
spruce fitted through the scuppers; see Fig. 150.

Starting at the stern, tack the bulwark to the boat by app-
lying drops of cyano between the clamps. Check that the
joint surfaces meet snugly before applying the glue; check
also that the butt joint at the transom is accurate.

Allow the glue to harden, then remove the clamps and run
drops of cyano along the outside of the bulwark joints so
that the shells are glued in place along their full length.
When you have finished this task, repeat it with a second
application of cyano, taking care to avoid excess glue run-
ning onto the finished wooden deck.

Trim the transom doublers 13.9 and 13.10 to fit against the
joint edges and fix them in place using ST-E - Fig. 159.

Sand back the projecting edges of the doublers flush with
the hull and bulwark, and fill any gaps. Sand away the joint
flange at the transom completely.

Painting the hull

Dismantle and remove the rudder and propeller. Mask off
the threaded shaft end and nut, and seal the rudder bush
hole.

Carefully mask out all openings in the bulwark before you
start painting. Mask off the chain hawses and the 6 mm Ø
holes from the inside. Seal the bowsprit opening.

At the scuppers cover each stanchion with a narrow strip
of tape on the outside, so that this part of the stanchion
remains white.

Cover the bottom flange with more strips of tape, and seal
all the scupper openings with pieces of double-sided tape,
taking care to leave no gaps - Fig. 160. Mask off the enti-
re deck area at the level of the top joint flange.

Place the boat in the stand. Mark the centre of the waterli-
ne on the hull using a parallel marking device (pencil - not
felt-tip pen). Centre of waterline forward: 10 mm below the
split pin 1.6; waterline aft: bottom edge of rudder bush.
Paint a white band about 30 mm wide over the waterline
area.

The next stage is to paint the black area: mark the exact
top edge of the waterline 3 mm above the reference line.
Mask out the entire under-water hull (red area) from this
marked line. Mask off the rubbing strake. Paint the black
part of the hull, and paint the black areas of the bowsprit
and jib boom at the same time.

Repeat the masking process before painting the under-
water part of the hull. The finished waterline should be
about 6 mm wide. The rudder can be painted at the same
time.

The final stage is to paint the rubbing strake white.

Re-install the propeller and rudder.

Glue the hawses 13.8 into the appropriate holes in the bul-
warks. Glue the belaying rails 13.7 in place - Fig. 161.

Stage 14, the wooden bulwark

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