Raleigh Audio Premium Extreme RAKK dac, Assembly Manual

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Warnings and Cautions
Warning — a high voltage power supply (200VDC) is required to make the kit operate properly.
These voltages can be lethal.
If you are not familiar with safe techniques for completing the
installation of this kit with a high voltage power supply, then you should seek someone who is
qualified to help you construct this kit safely.
If you wish to review safe practice, consult the
ARRL Handbook for Radio Amateurs (www.arrl.org or often at used book stores), which has a
section on high voltage safety. Although they are usually referring to 1000v+, the techniques are
still applicable.
As the purchaser, you assume responsibility for safe assembly, testing, and
application of this kit.
Caution – Use only solder that is intended for electrical circuits. Do not use acid or corrosive
flux of any kind.
Caution – Any MOSFET is subject to damage by static electricity. Thus, the MOSFETs need
special care and handling especially when the relative humidity is low. Make sure to discharge
any static electrical charge from your body before handling a MOSFET. You can discharge your
body by touching a water faucet or grounded electrical appliance.
Soldering Notes
To a large extent, the success of your kit-building endeavor depends on your ability to solder
properly. Aside from experience, there are two pretty important factors in this success. The first
is the soldering equipment. I recommend using a temperature controlled soldering station,
although any good soldering iron of 40 watts or greater will do. There are many soldering
stations on the market; I have had good experience with the moderately priced Hakko Model
936. If you do have or purchase a soldering station, or even use your existing soldering iron, I
have found a chisel style tip of about 2mm-2.5mm width to be the most useful. You can use the
flat part for large solder joints and the corner for small solder joints. The second factor is the
selection of the solder you will use. The PC boards and most of the electrical components in the
kit are lead-free, as the movement in the EU has forced manufacturers to remove the lead (and
other dangerous heavy metals) from their products. Decent (notice, I didn’t write “good”) lead-
free solder exists, such as Cardas Tri-Eutectic, but it is not so easy to use unless you have some
soldering experience. Lead-free solder tends to melt in a sluggish way and the resulting solder
joints are not the customary shiny silver color, so it’s difficult to avoid “cold” solder joints
without experience. It’s up to you to decide what to use. Choose based on your experience. I
use Cardas Quad Eutectic and can recommend it without reservation; however other high quality
solders may work just as well. Take care in handling electronic solder as most of it still contains
a significant quantity of lead. Wash your hands thoroughly after construction sessions and keep
all kit materials well out of the reach of small children.
Even though there is a “component side” and solder side” to the board, your might find it more
convenient to solder the leaded components from the component side.
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