K021 Instructions v1.0
Tuning
Page
78
will give more traction in the corners, while less gives more bite while the car is level. A
good method of adjusting camber is actually watching tire wear or dirt build-up: if the tire
looks even or uniform coming off the track, then you’re close to spot-on.
RIDE HEIGHT
Ride height is how high the car sits off the ground at rest. Pick up the whole car and
drop it from a height of 6 inches (15 cm) or so onto a flat surface, letting the shocks
settle. To check ride height by eye, look at the molding seams in the middle of the
control arms: are they parallel with the ground (called “level”) or do they angle up or
down? If the center of the car is lower than the hub carriers/caster blocks, so the arms
angle up as they go out, that is referred to as ‘below level’, and vice-versa if they’re
angled down. If you have a ride-height gauge, touch off just behind the front bumper for
the front and just under the transmission for the rear (the chassis will wear underneath
the rear pivot block through the chassis life; measuring under the transmission will be
more consistent).
The standard ride height is with the front arms level, or about 24 mm off the ground
using a gauge (gauge measurement will vary based on the diameter of front tires); and
the rear arms just below level, or roughly 23mm with similar considerations for tires.
Raising the whole car up will add traction, feel better on rough tracks, and jump better.
It also makes the car more prone to traction-rolls, though. When the traction comes up,
it’s better to lower the car some. This makes the car feel more direct, with faster
reactions, and helps prevent roll-overs.
Check the car from the side using the same drop technique. This lets you see the
“rake” of the chassis: the angle from front to back. In general you want to keep the car
flat front-to-rear, or perhaps a touch higher in the back. Lowering one end of the car will
give that end a little more grip, but extreme differences can make the car hard to control
on the track.
CAMBER LINKS
Camber links are one of the more complicated adjustments on any R/C Car, and your X
– 6 Squared is no different. The inside hole groups are referred to by numbers, and the
outside holes are called by letter. The more inside the hole is, the lower the value.
Thus a “2B” rear camber link is in the outside hole of the rear bulkhead (2) and the
middle hole in the rear hub carrier (B); a “1A” link would be the inside holes in both.
