Monaco Camelot 2007, Owner'S Manual

Page: 71 / 258

7
Section 3 — exterior & interior care
camelot 2007
Fixing scratches in stained woodwork:
Light scratches will often disappear when
carefully rubbed with furniture polish or paste
wax. When scratches appear lighter than the
surrounding dark-stained woodwork, it usually
means either that the scratch goes through the
stain into the wood or that the varnish is flaking
off. Deeper scratches can be hidden by carefully
rubbing with a piece of oily nut meat such as
Brazil nut, black walnut or pecan. Be careful
to rub the nut meat directly into the scratch to
avoid darkening of the surrounding wood. Color
the scratch with brown coloring crayon or liquid
shoe dye (especially good on walnut). Always
test a procedure on an inconspicuous area on the
wood to ensure no damages to the finish occurs.
Staining the scratch with iodine:
Mahogany - Use new iodine.
Brown or Cherry Mahogany - Use iodine
that has turned dark brown.
Maple -
Dilute one part iodine with one part
denatured alcohol.
Commercial scratch removers, or stick wax to
match the wood finish, can also be used. After
the scratch has been hidden, polish or wax the
entire area. Deep scratches should be repaired
and finished by a professional.
Dents:
Small dents may be repaired by using steam.
To raise a small dent, place a damp cloth over
the area and hold a medium-hot iron on it. The
steam causes the wood fibers to swell back into
place. It may be necessary to repeat this process
until the dented area is level with the surface.
Allow the area to dry.
Restoring the clear finish:
Check the scratches carefully. If flaking
varnish is visible with dark-stained wood
underneath, only the clear finish may need to
be restored. Rub the loose varnish with fine
steel wool or fine synthetic steel wool until you
have removed the flaking varnish and slightly
roughened a small area of the finish surrounding
the scratch. With the tip of a rag, a small brush,
or even a cotton swab, apply a thin coat of wipe-
on finish. Apply finish to the damaged area only.
Several coats may be needed to hide the scratch.
Re-staining the wood:
If bare wood is visible at the bottom of the
scratch, the wood will need to be re-stained.
To remove damaged varnish, lightly roughen a
small area around the scratch with sandpaper,
steel wool or synthetic steel wool. Find a stain
that is a shade lighter than the wood finish. Stain
the bare wood with a very small amount of stain
on a rag, brush or cotton swab. If the color is too
light, apply additional coats. Rub away excess
stain with a dry rag. If the wood becomes too
dark, use a rag moistened in mineral spirits to
lighten the wood. Select a lighter color stain and
continue.
Several companies have simplified this repair
process by designing oil-based wood stain into
marker-like containers to rub on to the scratch.
Torn and scratched wood fibers will absorb stain
and darken quickly. Start with a stain color that
is lighter than the original finish. A second coat
can always be applied if the color of the first
coat is too light. Once the color is blended, patch
the clear finish as described above and apply a
wipe-on finish.
countertopS
Solid Surface
Routine Care:
The motorhome solid surface countertops and
sinks have a matte/satin finish. Soapy water or
ammonia-based cleaners will remove most dirt
and stains from all tops and bowls. Individual
techniques may be used to remove different
stains. Follow the recommendations below.
Cleaning the Countertops:
Most dirt and stains:
Use soapy water
or ammonia-based cleaner.
Water marks: Wipe with damp cloth
and towel dry.
Difficult stains: Use soft scrub and a
grey Scotchbrite Pad.
Disinfecting: Occasionally wipe surface
with diluted household bleach (one part
water and one part bleach).
Cleaning the Solid Surfaces Sink:
Occasionally clean by using
Soft Scrub Liquid
Cleanser and a grey Scotchbrite pad. Scrub the
sink, rinse and towel dry.
Removing Cuts and Scratches:
Solid Surface countertops are completely
renewable. Use the following instructions to
remove minor cuts and scratches.
Sand area starting with 180 grit
sandpaper, working your way up to 2000
grit or until blemish is gone and renewed
finish is achieved.
Never sand in one small area. Feather out
lightly at each increase in sandpaper grit
to blend restoration.
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