TROUBLESHOOTING AND REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS FOR L&L KILNS
troubleshoot-general.pdf
REV: 4/15/2017
Page 6
2017
L&L Kiln Mfg, Inc. 505 Sharptown Rd, Swedesboro NJ 08085 856.294.0077 F:856.294.0070 [email protected] hotkilns.com
EASY-FIRE DISPLAY READS 2400 or
CPLt WHEN IT STARTS UP
Even though you know the kiln is not that hot. This indicates
thermocouple circuit failure.
TECHNICAL NOTE: This is called thermocouple upscale
protection. If the control senses a lack of milivoltage (an
open circuit) it interprets this as the highest temperature
the control could reach. This automatically ensures that the
control will not call for power.
1) Check thermocouple end. Examine end carefully.
Sometimes there can be a crack that opens up while the
kiln is hot but appears to be normal when the kiln is cold.
If the end of the thermocouple looks severely corroded and
you are getting Error codes then it is best to replace the
thermocouple. NOTE: You have to open up the Element
Cover Box and remove the thermocouples to check the
ends.
A thermocouple end that will still work but is getting
close to creating a problem.
2) Check thermocouple circuit. For instance check to
make sure that all the thermocouple lead wires are firmly
connected to the Thermocouple Terminal Strip. Check
where the thermocouple lead wires go into the ends of the
thermocouples. Are the wires loose? Tighten the screws
on the ends of the thermocouples to be sure you have a
tight connection. Check for corrosion. Check where the
thermocouples connect to the DynaTrol. Try pulling off each
connection and reseating it. This can scrape away corrosion
that may have built up. Check for melted wires inside the
Element Cover Box.
3) A very easy check is to check resistance (ohms) right on
the Thermocouple Terminal Strip. Unplug kiln or disconnect
from live power by turning off circuit breaker or fused
disconnect switch. Open panel. You don’t even have to
remove the thermocouple wires. Just touch the terminal
strip itself with your probes (terminals #1 & #2 for TC1,
terminals #3 & #4 for TC2 and terminals #5 & #6 for TC3). If
the thermocouples and circuit is normal then you will see a
resistance of about .9 or 1.0. If you see an OL in your meter
then you have an open circuit somewhere which is probably
a bad thermocouple.
4) If you have a bad thermocouple replace it with a new
one. Although you may be able to “make it work” by twisting
the ends of the wire together this could easily fail during an
important load and could also be extremely inaccurate.
ONE-TOUCH CONTROL DISPLAY
READS FAIL
Usually
FAIL
will be seen flashing along with a
tC
indicating the thermocouple has failed.
1) Check thermocouple end. Examine end carefully.
Sometimes there can be a crack that opens up while the
kiln is hot but appears to be normal when the kiln is cold.
If the end of the thermocouple looks severely corroded and
you are getting Error codes then it is best to replace the
thermocouple. NOTE: You have to open up the Element
Cover Box and remove the thermocouple to check the end.
See this to replace thermocouple:
hotkilns.com/change-
thermocouple
2) Check thermocouple circuit. For instance check to
make sure that all the thermocouple lead wires are firmly
connected to the Thermocouple Terminal Strip. Check
where the thermocouple lead wires go into the ends of the
thermocouples. Are the wires loose? Tighten the screws
on the ends of the thermocouples to be sure you have a
tight connection. Check for corrosion. Check where the
thermocouples connect to the DynaTrol. Try pulling off each
connection and reseating it. This can scrape away corrosion
that may have built up. Check for melted wires inside the
Element Cover Box.
3) A very easy check is to check resistance (ohms) right on
the Thermocouple Terminal Strip. Unplug kiln or disconnect
from live power by turning off circuit breaker or fused
disconnect switch. Open panel. You don’t even have to
remove the thermocouple wires. Just touch the terminal
strip itself with your probes (terminals #1 & #2 for TC1,
terminals #3 & #4 for TC2 and terminals #5 & #6 for TC3). If
the thermocouples and circuit is normal then you will see a
resistance of about .9 or 1.0. If you see an OL in your meter
then you have an open circuit somewhere which is probably
a bad thermocouple.
4) If you have a bad thermocouple replace it with a new
one. Although you may be able to “make it work” by twisting
the ends of the wire together this could easily fail during an
important load and could also be extremely inaccurate.