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Art nr K0006129
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sparing with textured coating immediately in front of the fire-box
where a decorative metal trim will later be installed. Rendering
can also be applied with a steel brush. Give free rein to your
imagination.
-
The surface may later be repaired with a similar coating or
repainted in a different colour.
-
Before the coating/paint is fully dry, fit the decorative metal trim
around the front of the fire-box (see Fig. 6)
-
Once the coating/paint has dried fully, remove the protective
plastic sheeting from the fire-box. Do this carefully, making sure
that no plastic or masking tape is left on the fireplace or the
surround.
2B.10. FLOOR PLATE
If the floor on which the fireplace is standing is made of a
combustible material, a protective floor plate must be installed as
described in section 3
3.. USING THE FIREPLACE
3.1 GENERAL INFORMATION
The fireplace has been heat-treated in the factory before delivery,
but there may still be a faint smell of burning paint residue etc.,
when the fireplace is used for the first few times
Start with only small amounts of wood and ensure efficient
ventilation of the room and any adjacent spaces.
It is advisable to be cautious when using the fireplace for the first
few times. Burn only two logs at a time and avoid using excessive
amounts of paper, fire-lighting blocks or kindling wood as this can
raise the temperature too high too quickly. Always lay the logs
horizontally. Do not stack them vertically. To ensure that no
damage is done to a brick flue, especially in extremely cold
conditions, we recommend that you do not over-stoke the fire.
When the fireplace is heated normally at the rated output, the
temperature of the flue gases will not exceed 350°C.
Flaking paint or a greyish tinge on the fireplace body is a sure
sign of excessive temperatures in the fire-box. If the steel
components become deformed, the temperatures being
generated are far too high. Kastor is not liable for associated
damage.
Always observe the safety advice under the heading “Important
Information”
.
Power ratings
(Normal operation, see sections 3.2, 3.4 and 3.5)
Fireplace model
Power rating (kW)
Bravo 6
Cavallier 7
Princess 10
Solei 6
3.2 FUEL
As a rule, only untreated firewood should be used in the fireplace.
Impregnated wood, particleboard, laminates, plastics or liquid
fuels etc., must not be used when lighting the fireplace. It is
normally sufficient to use a couple of sheets of crumpled
newspaper and a few splintered sticks to light a fire. Once the fire
is burning, kiln-dried wood, wood chips or thin wood must only be
used in limited quantities as these produce an intense heat and
may damage the fireplace. (Builder’s timber waste often contains
prohibited fuels.)
Only a small quantity of firewood (enough to stoke the fire once)
may be stored near to the fireplace. A small amount of firewood
may be stored in the wood compartment under the fireplace – but
never fill the compartment completely.
If wood is stored close to the fireplace, always observe the safety
distances stipulated in section 2.3.
3.3 OBS – COMBUSTION SYSTEM
(Bravo and Solei only)
Solei and Bravo fireplaces incorporate Kastor’s own OBS combustion
system, an efficient innovation which saves wood at the same time as
it reduces emissions of pollutants.
Primary air
that is essential for combustion is supplied through the
adjustable grate in the base of the fireplace (Fig. 1.2). This grate is
operated using the grate shuttle (Fig. 1C)
When wood is heated, fumes are produced and secondary air is
required to burn these fumes. The secondary air flow is controlled by
the sliding air-vent above the fireplace door (Fig. 1D)
This vent also controls the flow of
tertiary air
, which is supplied to burn
up any residue remaining after the secondary combustion. If the
draught in the flue is poor, the sliding air-vent must be closed as much
as possible. If there is a strong draught in the flue, this air-vent must
be fully open. Under normal conditions the vent is in a half-open
position
3.4 CONTROLLING THE HEAT OUTPUT
The output of heat can be controlled in four ways: with the aid of
the upper and lower air vents (Fig. 1D and 1C), by regulating the
draught in the flue, by regulating the amount of wood in the fire-
box and by selecting the right type of fuel.
As a rule there is no need to stoke a fire with more than four logs
at a time, regardless of the size of the logs. Obviously, however,
large logs will burn for a longer time.
Dry wood produces more heat more quickly than damp wood.
Remember that very dry wood produces a rapid and intense heat.
If the draught in the flue is too strong, this can be regulated by the
flue damper and by the grate shuttle under the fireplace door.
Never reduce the air flow so much that the fire begins to
smoke and smoulder.
Good quality wood produces more heat than damp, rotten wood.
Newsprint has a heating value equivalent to that of wood.
3.5 LIGHTING A FIRE
Do not stack too much wood in the fire-box.
Always stack firewood horizontally (never vertically!) behind the
log-guard.
To start with, depending on the model, four logs weighing a total of 2–5
kilos are usually sufficient. The fire may then be stoked with one or two
logs after these first logs have burned down.
This will produce a heating output of approximately 3,000–7,000
W (with a closed door and low draught).
When re-lighting the fire, it is advisable to stack the logs in a criss-
cross pattern. The kindling (tinder, newspaper or small sticks of
wood) should be placed underneath the middle of the pile of logs.
Stoke the fire with one or two logs at a time as the wood burns
down, placing these logs parallel to the rear wall of the fire-box.
Make sure that no pieces of wood can fall or hang in front of the
log-guard.
3.6 LONG-LASTING HEAT
Before stoking a fire with new logs, rake the embers into a pile on one
side of the rear wall of the fire-box. Then place two or three fairly thick
logs on the bed of embers so that just one side of each log is in
contact with the glowing wood. Open the air intake fully until the logs
have caught fire. Then reduce the draught in the fire-box by adjusting
the flue damper and the air intake under the fireplace door. Make
sure, however, that you do not reduce the air flow so much that fire-
box becomes filled with smoke.
With the levers controlling the through-flow of air almost closed,
the fire will burn for many hours while producing only a small
output of heat.
3.7 CLEANING GLASS DOORS
Doors should only be cleaned when they are cool. The simplest
and most environmentally friendly way to do this is with fine ash.
Dip a damp cloth in ashes from the fire-box and rub gently over
the surface of the glass.
Then wipe clean with a clean damp cloth before drying and
polishing with kitchen paper or similar.
The glass doors are made of special glass, but should be treated
with care. (Do not slam the doors shut.)
3.7.1 REPLACING BROKEN PANES OF GLASS
(fig. 4)
Bravo and Solei:
-Carefully remove any splinters of glass.
-Open the door and lift it off its hinges.
-Undo the nuts (1) and remove the fixing lug and and washers (2)
as well as the gasket seals (3).
-Check that the sealing strips (4) are in place on the frame.
-Put the pane of glass in place.
-Put the gasket seals (3) in place on the fixing lugs.
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