GRAUPNER GmbH & Co. KG D-73230 KIRCHHEIM/TECK GERMANY
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#0060946
08/2009
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top end of the shafts. Secure the rudders with the two clamps by pushing them through the holes in the
rudder shafts.
•
Fit the rudder pushrod onto the guide sleeves.
NOTE:
ensure that the position is exactly as shown. Set the
rudder servo to centre, using the procedure outlined for the winch. The output lever can now be screwed to
the servo.
•
Install the keel in the hull and fit the retaining nut to secure it.
•
Connect the leads attached to the winch, the rudder servo and the switch to the receiver, as shown in the
sketch. Check that the channel sequence is correct, i.e. that each transmitter control really does operate
the corresponding function. When you are satisfied, place the receiver in a small plastic bag and secure the
opening with a rubber band or adhesive tape.
NOTE:
the bag must not be watertight, otherwise
condensation may form inside it.
•
Tie the aerial wire to the thin thread and use the thread to draw the wire through the hull. You can remove
the thread and discard it once the aerial is outside the hull.
NOTE:
since the opening through which the
knot has to be threaded is only 3 mm in size, you must ensure that the knot is not too large.
TIP:
tape the
wire to prevent it slipping back into the hull.
•
Insert a winch crank in one holder (C08) and then glue the mating piece (C09) on top. Screw the holders to
the forward cockpit plate, then screw the two holders (C12) to the underside of the plate.
•
Screw the base plate to the lower radar ball, then glue the upper ball on top. Screw the radar balls to the
rear cockpit plate before screwing the two holders (C12) to the underside of the plate.
•
Screw the winch base components (C03, C05 and C07) to the hull; take care to allocate the base parts
correctly.
•
Glue the winch hatch covers (C02, C04 and C06) to the base components.
•
Connect the three winches using the 1.5 mm Ø cord, as shown in the sketch.
•
Glue the two braces (C01) to the underside of the cross-strut, roughen the pins and glue them in the strut
before installing this assembly in the hull.
•
Glue two of the roughened pins in the ship’s wheel holder (C11), then glue the mating piece (C10) on top
before attaching a ship’s wheel to each of the black metal pins.
NOTE:
remember to produce a pair of
mirror-image ship’s wheels, as shown in the sketch. Glue the two ship’s wheels to the hull.
•
The bow pulpit and the two stern pulpits can now be glued to the hull, followed by the railing stanchions.
NOTE:
ensure that all the holes in the stanchions for the railing cords lie parallel to the outside edge of the
hull.
NOTE:
the long railing stanchion should be fitted at the stern.
•
Cut the railing cords to the required lengths, thread them through the holes in the stanchions, and tie the
ends to the bow and stern pulpits; secure the knots with a drop of glue.
NOTE:
the railing cords should not
be so slack as to hang down, but on the other hand do try to keep the tension in all of the cords slight. On
no account should the tension be excessive, otherwise the cords might pull the pulpits out of the hull.
•
Screw a support (E09) to the inner main boom fitting (E07), then glue the two fittings (E07 and E08) to the
main boom. Screw the ring holders (E11) and the ball holder (E11) to the boom, then fix the cleat (D08) to
the side of the boom.
•
Fit the spacer between the two main boom holders (E05 and E06), then screw the boom in place
permanently. Attach a ball-link (D04) to each end of the threaded rod, and screw the ball-links in or out to
set the correct length: the distance between the links should be 73 mm. Press a linkage ball into each ball-
link and attach this assembly (known as the kicking strap) to the main boom and the bottom fitting.
•
Screw one short spreader to the upper mast section.
NOTE:
take care to position the spreader correctly.
Now screw the ring holder (D07) to the mast and install the mast head.
•
Screw the longest spreader and the middle spreader to the mast, again taking care to position these parts
correctly.
NOTE:
the underside of the mast is the end with the two holes. Fit the two mast sections together
and secure them with the retaining screw.
•
IMPORTANT:
to carry out the following steps correctly it is essential that you understand the procedure
fully. We therefore recommend that you first study the sketch in the supplementary instructions in peace
and quiet. Cut the following lengths from the 1.0 mm Ø cord: 1 x 146 cm, 4 x 64 cm and 4 x 40 cm. Fold the
146 cm length of cord in half, tie it to the front of the mast head, then pass the ends through the upper
spreader. Pass them through the next spreader, then through the rings, back through the spreader again,
and tie them to the mast at the upper spreader.
NOTE:
ensure that there is adequate and even tension
throughout the cord: the tension is correct when the cords reliably hold the mast assembly together, but do
not pull it out of shape. The same applies to all the following stages of assembling the rigging.
•
Tie a 64 cm length of cord to each of the rings, pass it through the lower spreader, then through a ring
again and tie the cord permanently to the upper spreader on the inside. Repeat this procedure for the next
section of the mast, moving down. Tie a 40 cm length of cord to each of the rings, run it inboard to the
spreader and pass the cord through a shroud tensioner (D06). Route the cord through the hook (cut-away
ring) and tie it as shown in the drawing.
•
Glue the sail battens to the mainsail as shown in the sketch. The light-coloured areas of the sail indicate
