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2.2. Reconnect batteries (Figure 17-1, Page 17- 2).
2.3. Place the Forward/Reverse Switch in either forward or reverse, turn the key on, and depress the
accelerator pedal until limit switches turn on. This should cause the solenoid to operate with an
audible click.
2.4. Connect the VOM across the solenoid small activating posts. You should read full battery voltage.
3. Check for controller input voltage.
3.1. Place the Forward/Reverse Switch in either forward or reverse, turn the key on, and depress the
accelerator pedal until limit switches turn on. This should cause the solenoid to operate with an
audible click.
3.2. Remove the 18 gauge red wire from controller input terminal “1” (“A” on early controllers)(Figure
17-6 or 17-8, Page 17-11 or 17-14).
3.3. Place the VOM black probe (-) on the “B-” terminal of the controller (with No. 6 black wire attached)
and the red probe (+) into the terminal end of the red wire removed from the controller terminal “1”.
You should read full battery voltage.
3.4. If the controller input terminal is not getting full battery voltage, then check wire and connections
between the solenoid small post and controller “1” (“A” on early controllers) terminal. Replace
defective parts.
3.5. Disconnect battery wires (See Figure 17-1, Page 17-2). Reconnect the No. 6 white wire to the A2
motor terminal.
3.6. Reconnect batteries.
4. Check for controller output.
4.1. Make sure the batteries are connected.
4.2. Remove the No. 6 white wire from A2 motor terminal and secure it so that it cannot make contact
with any live components or connections.
4.3. Connect the VOM red probe (+) to the controller B+ terminal and the black probe (-) to the controller
M- terminal. The VOM will display 48 volts, which is controller capacitor voltage.
4.4. Turn on the key switch, shift the forward & reverse switch to forward and watch the VOM as you
depress the accelerator pedal. With the accelerator fully depressed, the VOM should show full bat-
tery voltage. If the VOM reading does not rise to full battery voltage (with a properly functioning
potentiometer and correct pedal adjustment), then the controller is defective.
5. Early 1995 vehicles with multi-step potentiometers only - check for diode output.
5.1. Disconnect battery wires as shown in Figure 17-1, Page 17-2, and discharge the controller as
instructed in WARNING on Page 17-1.
5.2. Remove wires from controller A2 and B+ terminals.
5.3. Use an ohm meter to check the resistance between the controller A2 and B+ terminals. You are
testing for presence of a diode inside the controller, so swap the two meter leads and look for a low
resistance when the (+) probe is on controller A2 terminal and the (-) probe is on B+ terminal and
a much higher resistance when the probes are reversed. If your meter has a diode test function,
use that. If you find the diode to be shorted, the controller is defective.
5.4. Attach the #6 white wire to A2 motor terminal.
5.4. Reconnect wires to controller A2 and B+ terminals.
17-19
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