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on the tail threaded link. The link is inserted into the CF pushrod with
about 7 to 8mm remaining outside.
With the help of a hairdryer the epoxy can be hardened in about 5 minutes,
slowly turning the rod in the heat blast. After cooling, twist on a ball
joint 041 and clip it to the front of the servo arm. The servo arm has to be
aligned square and put on the tail rotor in a 0° setting angle. Then you can
use a marker to put a line at the end of the ball joint 041, previously
clipped onto the bell crank, and cut the CF pushrod with a Dremel or
Proxxon. Once the pushrod is cut to length the threaded pushrod and ball
link can be epoxied into the CF pushrod and clipped onto the servo once the
epoxy has hardened. Plea note that the rear joint must be screwed completely
on until hitting the carbon pushrod. The front thread may be open a little
bit, the rear end must be fully closed.
Onto the rudder horn of the tail rotor servo, in this case a Futuba 4-times-
cross-arm is used. In the outermost hole of the servo arm is screwed a hex
bolt M2x10 099, a 4.8mm ball D118 and an M2 washer 001, after drilling out
the arm hole to a diameter of 1.8mm (5/64”). From the underside it will be
secured with an M2 washer 001 and an M2 lock nut 007.
The tail servo arm will be adjusted square to the servo, but will also not
be screwed together yet.
36. The rails D137 are mounted with the holes more to the bottom edge,
leaving a small slot above on each side. Please make sure that you mount the
rails with the chamfered edges to the front. The fit of the rail must be
very close, within 0.1-0.2mm sideways and vertically. This can be adjusted
either through sanding or filing the battery plate a little bit or thru
0.1mm washers (475) between the upper and lower frames.
Before you mount the eyelets (D456) onto the battery plate D455 you must
check first for the best position of the battery. The CG should be exactly
under the mainshaft. To get the greatest range of possible positions on the
battery plate, different holes are available to allow for the best position
possible of the battery. After finding optimal battery location, the eyelet
D456 is fixed in the best position with two countersunk screws M3x8 025.
For mounting the battery onto the plate D455, either some pieces of mountain
bike tube, cut into roughly 25mm wide rings is an excellent solution. The
dampening is excellent, it is very elastic and the battery cannot slide.
Alternatively glass armed tape can be used.
Finally the fixing bolt (D157) is pushed through the frames and eyelet and
locked in position with a Tenax holder D460 (60).
The gold motor bullet connectors will now be soldered on in the regular way
(female on the live side) and insulated. For the motor, 4mm connectors are
sufficient, for the battery 5.5 or 6mm connectors should be used, for the
lowest possible resistance.
The ESC can be attached to the ESC mount with two cable ties. The cables can
be run as shown on the pictures. When attaching live cables to the body rods
please remember that carbon fiber is electrically conductive and in the
worst case scenario the chaffing of insulation can lead to an electrical
short.
37 Shown is the classic adjustment of the rotorblades. The datum wire
simulates the flybar. If you use an electronic pitch gauge you should
support two blocks under the frame so that the skids are free in the air and
the model is leveled horizontally. If you use a "Bevel-Box" you can use the
large and flat heads of the blade screws for magnetic mounting of the box.
The stall angle of a symmetrical airfoil is 27°. You should ensure that the
sum of collective and cyclic pitch that you use will be under this limit.
This is also valid for the tailrotor! For hard 3D-flight more cyclic than
collective is recommended, i.e. 12° collective and 14° cyclic. For speed
flight you should choose the converse ie 16° collective and 8° cyclic. The
mentioned values are recommended maximum values so generally you should
follow the recommendations from the manufacturer of the flybarless
controller.
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