18
If the wall to which the changer will be mounted does not meet the construction standards above, we
recommend using the Standard Change-Makers stand. The stands are provided with mounting holes on
the top surface for mounting the changer and holes are also provided on the bottom for securing the stand
to the floor. A drill template is included with each stand. When using the stand, we recommend that the
changer be bolted to the wall as well as to the stand. This provides a highly secure installation. See Section
11 for all the stand assembly diagrams.
WARNING!!!
Welding the cabinet to any kind of mounting could cause damage to electrical components within the
machine! Warping of the cabinet may also occur. Welding of any kind to the cabinet during installation
will void the manufacturer’s warranty!
If welding is ultimately necessary, all components within the machine must be removed prior to
welding! Please contact our Service Department with any questions.
If the changer is to be mounted to a post, the post should be sunk in concrete for stability. It is also
recommended that the post be filled with concrete for strength. A steel plate with approximately the same
dimensions as the changer should be welded to the post. Bolt the changer to the steel plate through the
four 1/4-inch mounting holes drilled into the plate. Tack weld the heads of the mounting bolts to prevent
their removal. Four nuts and washers inside the changer can then secure the changer. If this method is
not feasible, the bolts can be bent after installation to prevent removal.
2.5
Rear Load Changers
A rear load changer cabinet must mount through a hole in the wall. The
stainless steel front plate, which extends 2 inches beyond the cabinet on all
sides, must be tight against the wall surface. The cabinet will be 13”-18”
deep. Its protrusion into the back room will be the difference between this
depth and the thickness of your wall. Allow for proper door swing. Also,
lay a bead of caulking inside the front plate before installation to prevent
moisture incursion.
Angle iron mounting brackets are available to secure the changer in place.
One side of the angle iron should be secured to the side of the cabinet. The
other side of the angle iron mounts to the wall. The installed angle irons will
provide additional support needed to minimize cabinet flexing when the door
is opened.
Some rear load models have the coin hoppers mounted on the door. When the hoppers are full and the
door is opened, a significant load occurs on the cabinet. This load can result in cabinet flexing if the cabinet
is not sufficiently supported. Repeated flexing of the cabinet can result in metal fatigue and stressed weld
joints on the cabinet.
When the cabinet is installed in a cinder block wall, as shown in Figure 1, the block wall will typically
provide enough support on the sides and bottom of the cabinet to prevent flexing. In locations where this
type of mounting is not feasible, for example a 2x4 stud wall, additional support is required. To sufficiently
support the cabinet, at least 75% of the cabinet bottom should be supported with load-bearing, non-flexing
material such as cinderblock or iron. In addition, the sides of the cabinet must also be supported to prevent
the cabinet from twisting when the door is opened. See Figure 2 for the required support areas.
Figure 1
