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Freehand shaping is shaping without the aid of
the miter slot or fence. The most dangerous part
of shaping freehand is beginning the cut, where
the cutter first contacts the workpiece. Often
the workpiece will tend to jerk or kickback,
catching the operator off guard.
To reduce this tendency, use a starting pin. The
pin allows you to anchor and slowly pivot the
workpiece into the cutter as the cut is started.
Thus shaping freehand is more stable and safer.
See
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Remove the fence assembly from the shaper.
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Insert the starting pin in the best suited hole
on the table so you can feed the workpiece
into and against the rotation of the cutter.
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Install the cutter so it will cut in the correct
direction, and adjust the spindle height.
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Install the auxiliary guard. DO NOT use the
shaper without a guard. Refer to
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on
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for information on making and
using an auxiliary guard.
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Use a supplemental hold-down jig like the
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W1500 Right Angle Jig as shown
in
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or you can use rubberized-
handle push blocks to support or guide the
workpiece and protect your hands.
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Place the workpiece against the starting pin.
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Slowly pivot and feed the workpiece into the
cutter. Avoid starting the cut on the corner of
the workpiece as kickback could occur. Once
the cut is started, the workpiece should be
pulled away from the starting pin.
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Starting pin operation
(Guard not shown for clarity).
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Hold-down jig used to support
workpiece
(Complete guard not shown for clarity).
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Summary of Contents for W1702
Page 12: ... 12 152 1V2 152 145 4 145 5 145 3 145 2 PARTS Motor Diagram Replaces Page 38 ...
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