20
Assemble the top beater bar, placing
the bolts into the grooves on top of the
uprights. Be sure that the washers are
installed in between the uprights and
the wing nuts!
Tighten the wing nuts, so that the top
beater bar is high enough, allowing the
reed to be inserted from the side.
The square parts of the carriage bolts have to be pulled into the wood of the beater bar. Tap
the bolt heads, using a plastic or wooden mallet and tighten the wing nuts again. Repeat this
until the squares of the bolt heads are pulled into the wood completely. Slide the reed
precisely into the centre of the beater, loosen the wing nuts and let the groove of the beater
bar snap onto the top of the reed. Tighten up the wing nut again.
Now we will check if the beater is even and make a correction if necessary, using the thin
cardboard strips that you found in hardware bag 5. First check if the hinges protrude the
same distance from the bottom of the uprights.
Take the beater by its handle and pull it
towards you some cm (1-2").
If the beater is even, both uprights will
leave the buffers at the same moment
and also touch the buffers at the same
time when you let the beater go back
and rest against them.
If this is not the case, the beater is not
even and you will correct that with the
small cardboard strips from the
hardware bag.
The upright that leaves the buffer latest when you pull the beater, is the one that needs one
or more cardboard strips in its slit connection with the lower reed holder. Unscrew the m6 bolt
several turns, so that some play is created in this connection. Slide a cardboard strip
completely into the slit at the bottom and fasten the m6 bolt again. Check for evenness again,
adding strips in the slit as necessary.
Summary of Contents for Megado 110
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