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While pushing the brake pedal down,
you can attach the hook to the bolt of
the hinge point located on the treadle
where it is connected to the back part
of the loom.
By changing the length of the Texsolv
cord, you can adjust the friction of the
brake. Adjust the friction to the point
where you can easily turn the crank on
the warp beam, but where the beam
does not turn back by itself when you
let go of the crank.
You can adjust the length of the cord
by using the next cord loop and you
can shorten the cord more precisely by
spinning the hook to give the cord a
twist.
After unlocking the brake again,
replace the hook on the eye of the
pedal, otherwise it can damage the
wood while the back part of the loom
moves up and down.
Blocking the back part during the beaming-up of the warp
In order to prevent the back part of the
loom from being pulled up during the
beaming of the warp, you need to
block the back part in its lowest
position.
If your Megado has a mechanical
dobby, you can achieve this by taking
the spring off that connects the
blocking block to the frame of the
loom.
If your loom does not have a
mechanical dobby, you can block the
treadle and the back part by putting
some books under the treadle.
The apron rods and the tying-on of the warp to the cloth beam
The apron rod of the cloth beam is a bit shorter than the apron rod of the warp beam,
because when you wind the cloth on the cloth beam, the rod has to pass between the spring
arms. Make sure that the apron rod does not get caught behind a spring arm.
The apron rods are marked where the beam cords must be tied. For each rod, make loops in
the cords and put the rod through them. Position the loops on the pre-marked spots. Pull on
Summary of Contents for Megado 110
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