38
42.
Remove the rear brake cable and set it
aside for later.
43.
Remove and wipe clean both deraileurs.
44.
Unthread both gear cables back as far as
the handlebar shifters, coil them and tape
them to the handlebar out of the way.
45.
Remove the bike’s front wheel (the free
wheel) and its rear wheel (the drive wheel).
Wipe any loose oil and grime off the rear
gear cluster with an old rag.
46.
Wipe clean the chainwheel and remove it,
as well as the other crank, using your
special tool.
47.
Disassemble the crank axle bearing,
carefully getting all the bearings. Remove
the second cup also, take care, it’s a left
hand thread, so clockwise to remove it.
Clean and fit them into the new bearing
shell.
48.
Fit high pressure road tyres to your rims.
49.
Fit the low profile cones provided to the
long axle and then fit it into the donor’s front
wheel (freewheel). The low profile cones
take the smaller diameter hub. Fit the
freewheel into the bike’s rear drop outs.
Fit the FWD Bracket
50.
Turn the bike onto its wheels and prop it
up securely.
51.
If you have a quill type stem, loosen the
headstem and lift it and the handle bars out
of the fork neck tube.
52.
Fit the crank axle and bearings into the
cruzbike chainstay, replace and or re-grease
as necessary.
53.
Turn the forks so they are pointing
backwards. Make sure the brake cable is
clear of the frame.
54.
Fit the FWD brackets and drive wheel to
the front forks, as pictured. Use spacing
washers between the FWD bracket and the
fork legs so that when tightened there is 135
mm betwe en the dropout sof the fork legs.
The legs must not be squeezed together, or
pushed apart – they must remain parallel.
55.
The clearance between the top of the tyre
and the fork crown is critical. To increase the
clearance:
56.
a) Slacken off the clamps that hold the
FWD bracket to the forks and slightly loosen
the bolt that connects the FWD bracket to
the fork dropout
57.
b) Adjust the brake pads till they are at the
bottom of their adjustment slot.
58.
c) Rotate the FWD bracket down until the
brake pad is just able to reach wheel rim
and place packing in the gap that has
opened up where the bracket rests against
the fork leg. Folded rubber from an old tube
may be suitable. The wheel should be
mounted as low as possible in the frame.
59.
Measure the clearance from the tyre to
the fork crown.
60.
Fit the top tube and chainstay
61.
Connect the top tube arm and the head
stem extension tube using the Dowel Pin
and allen key bolts provided.
62.
Fit the chainstay arms to the FWD bracket
using the Chainstay arm bolts, placing a
nylon washer either side of the Triangle
Bracket and on the outside, one steel
washer on each side.
63.
Fit the TFT sleeve to the chainstay, slot
facing down and fit the seat post clamp
around the end of the sleeve.
Assemble the Steering Tube
64.
Assemble the Steering Tube Extension
parts C3 and C4 as shown in the photo of
Parts Group C.
65.
If you have a quill type, fit the quill to
ahead adapter in the fork steering tube.
66.
If you have an ahead type, remove the
tensioning screw from the top of the stem,
loosen the stem clamp and remove the stem
and any spacers. Note the existence of a
star or flower nut inside the tube used by the
tensioning screw.