Zipp Manufacturing I-BOX, Инструкция по сборке

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21
One piece top deck installed.
Hatch before joining halves.
Mark 1/8 from side of cockpit opening.
When the deck is fully cured, remove the tape and
sand the seams. Determine which will be the “good”
side.
Cut about 20 pieces of wide tape for the next steps.
A shipping tape dispenser works very well for this.
Lay some newspapers on your work surface, and
place the deck on the papers “good” side down.
Mix about 1 ounce of epoxy finishing resin. Do not
thin it.
Using a credit card or similar, squeegee some
epoxy on the bottom side of the deck. Do the entire
surface. This will waterproof the underside of the
deck. Get it pretty thin. The resin goes a long way.
Using a stick or acid brush, coat the tops of the
bulkheads, stringers and deck supports with
finishing resin.
Start taping the deck down.
Align and tape the center of the deck at bulkhead 3.
Then align and tape at the nose, then center of the
transom.
Start taping the sides.
Tape tightly.
Check all around to make sure that the deck it tight
against the top of the hull.
Continue adding tape until the entire deck is in
contact all the way around. Check the transom from
behind, and add tape if needed. Check bulkhead 3
as well. If needed, you can use wide strapping tape
to really put some pressure on the deck. Wrap it all
the way around, if you do.
When everything looks good, add weights to the
deck center area.
Allow to cure overnight.
After the deck sheeting is fully cured, use your
plane and 80 grit to sand flush.
Give the whole boat a good sanding with your 80
grit block.
Use wood filler to fill any gaps or gouges, and to
build up the nose, if necessary.
After the filler is dry, sand it with 80 grit, using light
pressure.
At this point, you can round the deck where it meets
the sides.
Do not round any other edges. We need them
sharp.