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Cariba Mk2 

 

63in Span Sports Aerobatic Slope Soarer for 4-6 Channel RC Equipment. 

 

Designed by: Stan Yeo        

 

 

       Produced by: Phoenix Model Products 

 

Introduction 

 

 

 

The Cariba is a follow-on from the Carrera in that it 
shares the same wing. We have always liked ‘V’ tail 
models since our days of flying 100S models and 
over the years have designed and built several. 
Whilst they can have a tendency to ‘spin’ in tight 
slow turns if tailplane area is a bit tight we have 
found them more efficient than cross tail models 
with the same fuselage. Construction of the Cariba 
features a ply sided fuselage with a fully sheeted 
built-up wing containing a servo in each wing 
allowing the ailerons to be used as Flapperons thus 
enhancing the aerobatic performance of the model. 
Most kit parts are either Laser cut or routed for 
greater accuracy. The Cariba is a delightful model 
to build and an even more delightful model to fly. 

 

Radio Equipment Required 

 

The recommended radio equipment required for 
the Cariba is two metal geared servos i.e. Hitec 
HS82MG or the Ripmax New Power XL16HM or 
XL17HMB plus two standard size servos, a Square 
AA receiver battery and  a 4/6 channel  receiver. 
For Flapperons a 6ch Computerised transmitter 
6ch receiver is required. 

 

Tools / Materials Required 

 

The tools required to build the Cariba are a 
modelling knife with spare blades, a One Metre 
Straight Edge, a miniature David Plane, 180 grade 
Wet & Dry sanding block and soldering iron. The 
glues used to build the model are white PVA wood 
glue, some thin Superglue (please observe safety 
precautions) and a small quantity of two part epoxy. 
We recommend using a heat shrink polyester film 
for covering such as Oracover/Profilm or the 
thinner more economic version Easycoat.  
 

Please Note for ALL wood joints use PVA wood 
glue unless otherwise stated 

 

Building the Fuselage 

 

1.  Lightly sand the fuselage sides, top and bottom 

with 180 grade wet and dry to remove any 
'release' agent. Remove dust with a small 
brush or vacuum cleaner. 

2.  Align the fuselage sides with the Wingseat and 

mark out the position of formers F2 & F3 on the 

inside of the fuselage sides ensuring there is a 
left and right side.  Aligning with the Wingseat is 
to offset any variation in plan length due to 
changes in moisture content in the plan paper. 

3.  Cut slots for Ruddervator cable exits as indicated 

on plan (bottom of fuselage). 

4.  Using PVA (wood glue), glue spruce nose and 

wingseat strips to fuselage sides ensuring there 
is left and right side! Note Wingseat spruce strip 
extends back beyond F2. 

 

5. 

Glue Tailplane triangular seat in place taking 
care both sides are symmetrical. 

Check the seat 

forms a 120 degree angle!! 

6. Glue strip longeron super structure to the 

fuselage sides. 

7.  Lightly sand edges of fuselage sides to prepare 

gluing surface to receive top and bottom 
sheeting.  

8.  Cover plan with polythene. 
9.  Position fuselage over plan and glue F1 & F2 in 

position. Join fuselage at the rear. Take great 
care to ensure the fuselage is both straight and 
square! 

10. When glue has set remove fuselage from plan 

and fit F1 again checking fuselage alignment. 

11. Fit Ruddervator control rods. Anchor to fuselage 

side every 100-120mm as per Elevator control 
rod. Before fixing control cables check control 
cable inners are not binding and move freely.  

12. Tie cables together where they crossover at the 

rear. Seal knot with glue. 

13.  Fit Fuselage bottoms front and back. 
14. Mark line of fuselage on underside of Hatch then 

fit 10mm top nose sheet. 

15.  Sand the front of F1 flat and fit Noseblock. 
16. Fit balsa strips to underside of Hatch. Align them 

1mm outside the lines previously drawn to allow 
for sanding. 

17. Angle rear face of hatch to match front face of 

F2. Centrally position ply end face and Superglue 
in position. 

18. Cut Hatch to length and slope end at front of 

hatch to match abutting face. Allow enough 
space between the front of the hatch for the two 
ply end faces plus enough to ‘jam’ a third ply 
plate (supplied) to hold the hatch in position 
whilst the ‘front end’ is sanded to shape. This gap 
is to allow for the thickness of the covering 
material and easy removal of the hatch in use. 

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